Flowers · BulbsConvallaria majalis

Lily of the Valley

A beloved woodland groundcover with arching stems of intensely fragrant, tiny white bell flowers above pairs of smooth green leaves.

Partial Sun (3-6h)Medium (even moisture)365 daysDifficultyBeginner Friendly
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Lily of the Valley
Sow & harvest reminderstuned to your local frost dates
Sunlight
Partial Sun (3-6h)
Water Need
Medium (even moisture)
Frost Tolerance
Hardy (withstands frost)
Days to Maturity
365 days
Plant Spacing
15 cm
6 in
Hardiness Zones
Zone 2–9
USDA
Difficulty
Beginner Friendly
Expected Yield
1-2 flower
On this pageOverview
01 · Overview

Meet Lily of the Valley

A beloved woodland groundcover with arching stems of intensely fragrant, tiny white bell flowers above pairs of smooth green leaves. Lily of the valley spreads aggressively by rhizomes and is best planted where it can naturalize freely in shade. All parts are poisonous, but the heavenly spring scent makes it a timeless garden classic.

365
days from seed to your first harvest. Time your whole season around it — sow, feed and pick dates all key off this one number.
02 · When to plant

When to plant Lily of the Valley

While lily of the valley produces red berries containing seeds, propagation by seed is rarely practiced because it is extremely slow and results are unpredictable. Seeds require prolonged cold stratification and may take a year or more to germinate. The standard propagation method is division of rhizome pips in autumn or very early spring. Simply dig up sections of the spreading colony and replant immediately in prepared soil. Each pip with a healthy root system will establish and begin spreading within one season.

Planting & harvest schedule

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Your last frostApr 16 · average for your zone
Sow windowMar, Oct – Nov · in your climate
First harvestMar 15 · from sowing to first pick
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03 · Growing guide

How to grow Lily of the Valley

Plant lily of the valley pips (rhizome divisions with growth buds) in autumn or early spring, setting them just below the soil surface with the pointed tips facing up, spaced four to six inches apart. Choose a partially to fully shaded location under deciduous trees, along north-facing walls, or in woodland settings where the soil stays cool and moist. Convallaria tolerates deep shade better than almost any other flowering plant.

Water regularly during the first growing season to establish the spreading rhizome network. Once established, lily of the valley is essentially maintenance-free and will spread vigorously by underground runners to form dense, weed-suppressing carpets. In fact, its aggressive nature means you should plant it where spreading is welcome or contain it with physical root barriers sunk at least twelve inches deep.

The delicate, intensely fragrant white bells appear in mid-spring and last about three weeks. After flowering, the foliage persists as an attractive groundcover through summer before dying back in autumn. All parts of the plant are highly toxic if ingested, including the red berries that appear in late summer. Keep away from areas where children or pets play.

Dense ground cover of broad elliptical lily of the valley leaves
Convallaria's paired basal leaves emerge directly from underground rhizomes, forming a lush carpet
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04 · Companions

Lily of the Valley's best neighbours

Lily of the valley excels as a groundcover beneath shade trees and tall shrubs where few other plants will grow. It pairs beautifully with ferns, hostas, brunnera, and bleeding heart in woodland garden settings. Plant along shaded pathways near seating areas where the spring fragrance can be enjoyed. Keep away from small, delicate plants that cannot compete with its vigorous spreading habit.

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05 · Soil & feeding

Feed it well

Lily of the valley thrives in moist, humus-rich, slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5.0 to 7.0. Amend planting areas with generous quantities of leaf mold, compost, or well-rotted manure. Apply a balanced slow-release fertilizer in early spring as growth emerges and top-dress annually with compost or leaf mold in autumn. The shallow root system benefits from a light organic mulch that retains moisture. Avoid alkaline conditions which can cause yellowing.

Ideal Temperature

-35°C – 25°C
-40°C-17°C7°C30°C

Hardiness Zone Compatibility

12345678910111213
Ideal (zones 2-9)Greenhouse / protection neededNot recommended
06 · Growth stages

From seed to harvest, stage by stage

0–30 days

Dormant Pip

Rhizome pips rest underground through winter, requiring a cold stratification period of at least 8-10 weeks below 5°C (41°F) to break dormancy. The chilling requirement is essential for proper flower bud initiation in the following spring season.

30–55 days

Shoot Emergence

As soil temperatures reach approximately 7-10°C (45-50°F) in early to mid-spring, tightly rolled leaf spears push through the soil surface. Each pip produces one to three shoots, with flower-bearing pips typically showing a slightly thicker, more rounded bud compared to leaf-only pips.

55–75 days

Leaf Unfurling

The tightly rolled shoots unfurl into two or three broad, elliptical leaves with prominent parallel venation. Leaves reach 10-25cm in length and 3-8cm in width. The flower scape begins to emerge from between the leaf bases, initially appearing as a slender green stalk.

75–100 days

Flowering

The arching flower scape reaches 15-30cm tall, bearing a one-sided raceme of 5-15 pendulous, white, bell-shaped flowers. Each individual flower is 5-8mm across with six fused tepals and emits the characteristic intense sweet fragrance. Flowering typically occurs from late April through May in temperate climates and lasts two to three weeks.

100–150 days

Berry Formation

After pollination, small green berries develop where flowers were attached. Over several weeks these ripen to bright orange-red, each berry 5-7mm in diameter containing one to several seeds. The berries are extremely toxic and should never be consumed. Each berry contains dangerous concentrations of cardiac glycosides.

150–200 days

Foliage Decline

Beginning in mid to late summer, leaves gradually yellow and begin to senesce as the plant redirects energy into the rhizome system for next year's growth. The foliage naturally browns and collapses by early autumn. This dieback is a normal part of the plant's life cycle and should not be cause for concern.

200–365 days

Rhizome Expansion

During the dormant season, the underground rhizome network continues to expand horizontally, producing new pips that will generate next year's shoots. A single established pip can spread to form a colony covering several square meters over a few years. New daughter pips form at the growing tips of lateral rhizome branches.

Care Tip

Ensure pips remain in moist but not waterlogged soil during dormancy. Apply a 5-8cm layer of organic mulch such as shredded leaves to insulate rhizomes and maintain consistent soil moisture throughout the cold months.

07 · Monthly care

Caring for Lily of the Valley month by month

What to do each month for your Lily of the Valley

July

You are here

No specific care tasks for this month.

08 · Harvest

Harvesting Lily of the Valley

Cut lily of the valley stems for fragrant indoor bouquets when the lowest bells on the stem have opened and the upper buds are still closed. Pull stems gently from the base rather than cutting to get the longest possible stem. Place immediately in cool water. The heavenly scent is powerful enough that a small bunch will perfume an entire room. Flowers last about a week in water. Remember to wash hands after handling, as all parts are toxic.

Small bouquet of freshly cut lily of the valley stems in a glass vase
Prized as cut flowers for their intense fragrance; always wash hands thoroughly after handling
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Storage & Preservation

Lily of the valley is best preserved as dried or forced pips. To force for winter bloom, dig mature pips in late autumn, trim roots to four inches, and refrigerate in damp peat moss for three to four weeks. Pot up and bring into warmth for flowers in about three weeks. For dried arrangements, hang flower stems upside down in a dark, well-ventilated space. The scent does not persist in dried flowers. Pips for planting can be stored briefly in damp peat in the refrigerator.

09 · Pests

What goes wrong — and the fix

Anthracnose

Disease

Large, oval tan spots with dark borders on leaves, causing foliage to look ragged and unsightly by midsummer.

Prevention Remove and destroy infected foliage in autumn to reduce disease carryover. Improve air circulation by thinning overcrowded colonies.
Fix: Cut back all affected foliage and remove from the garden. In severe cases, apply a copper-based fungicide as new growth emerges in spring.

Spider Mites

Pest

Fine stippling on leaves, bronzed or yellowed foliage, tiny webs visible on undersides of leaves during hot, dry periods.

Prevention Keep the soil consistently moist and maintain high humidity around plantings. Avoid planting in hot, dry locations.
Fix: Spray foliage forcefully with water to dislodge mites. Apply insecticidal soap or horticultural oil for persistent infestations.

Stem Rot

Disease

Soft, mushy stems at the base, wilting foliage, foul-smelling decay in waterlogged conditions.

Prevention Ensure adequate drainage even in shaded locations. Avoid burying pips too deeply and keep mulch away from the crown.
Fix: Remove rotted portions and improve drainage. Allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings to halt the spread of rot organisms.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

The greatest challenge is controlling the aggressive spread, as lily of the valley can invade lawns, borders, and neighboring gardens via its vigorous underground rhizomes. Install root barriers at planting time to contain it. Failure to flower usually results from too much shade, overcrowding, or newly planted pips needing time to establish. Foliage can look shabby by late summer, especially in hot climates, so interplant with late-emerging perennials.

Growing Tips

  1. Plant rhizome pips horizontally at a depth of only 2-3cm with the growing point (bud) facing upward, spacing them 10-15cm apart in humus-rich, consistently moist but well-drained soil for optimal establishment
  2. Select a planting location in partial to full shade; lily of the valley thrives beneath deciduous trees where it receives dappled spring sunlight but is protected from intense afternoon sun that causes leaf scorch
  3. Amend heavy clay soils with generous quantities of leaf mold, composted bark, or well-rotted garden compost to improve drainage and create the loose, organic-rich substrate that convallaria prefers
  4. Install a physical root barrier made of thick plastic or metal edging buried at least 30cm deep around convallaria beds to prevent the vigorous rhizomes from spreading into adjacent garden areas or lawn
  5. Water established colonies deeply during prolonged dry periods in summer, applying approximately 2.5cm of water per week to prevent premature foliage dieback and ensure strong rhizome development for next year
  6. Avoid fertilizing with high-nitrogen products which promote excessive leaf growth at the expense of flowering; instead, apply a top-dressing of composted leaf mold in autumn to naturally enrich the soil
  7. Always wear protective gloves when planting, dividing, weeding, or handling any part of the plant including dead foliage, as the cardiac glycosides can be absorbed through skin abrasions and cause irritation
  8. Divide overcrowded colonies every 3-4 years in early autumn after foliage has died back to maintain vigorous flowering and prevent the center of the colony from becoming sparse and unproductive
  9. Keep all parts of the plant, including cut flowers and vase water, completely away from children, pets, and food preparation areas, and educate all household members about the plant's extreme toxicity
  10. Companion plant with shade-tolerant species such as hostas, ferns, astilbe, and hellebores that share similar cultural requirements and create visually appealing textural contrasts in the woodland garden
10 · Varieties

Pick your Lily of the Valley

Rosea

A delicate form with pale pink-mauve bells that add a subtle warm tone to shaded areas, less vigorous than the white species.

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Flore Pleno

A double-flowered form with extra petals creating fuller bells, slightly more upright and showy than the species.

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Albostriata

Green leaves with elegant creamy-white longitudinal stripes that provide ornamental interest even when not in flower.

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Fortin's Giant

A larger selection reaching twelve inches with bigger flowers and bolder foliage, excellent where maximum impact is desired.

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Why Grow Your Own?

Convallaria majalis is one of the most cost-effective ornamental ground covers available once established. A single purchase of 20-25 rhizome pips (typically costing $15-25 USD) can colonize an area of several square meters within 3-4 years through natural rhizome spreading, eliminating the need for additional plant purchases. The plant's aggressive spreading habit means division of existing colonies provides an essentially unlimited supply of new plants at no cost. Compared to annual bedding plants that require yearly replacement in shaded areas, established lily of the valley colonies are virtually maintenance-free perennials that return reliably for decades, representing significant long-term savings on garden planting costs. Note that this is a purely ornamental plant with no edible value whatsoever due to its extreme toxicity.

11 · Recipes

Quick recipes

Lily of the Valley Fragrance Potpourri (Non-Edible Craft)

Lily of the Valley Fragrance Potpourri (Non-Edible Craft)

20 minutes plus 2-3 weeks drying

A dried flower craft project to preserve the fragrance of lily of the valley blooms. This is NOT a food recipe. Always wear gloves when handling plant material and keep the finished potpourri well away from children, pets, and food preparation areas. Wash hands thoroughly after crafting.

5 ingredients
Pressed Lily of the Valley Botanical Art (Non-Edible Craft)

Pressed Lily of the Valley Botanical Art (Non-Edible Craft)

15 minutes plus 3-4 weeks pressing

A botanical pressing project to create framed artwork from lily of the valley flowers and leaves. This is a decorative craft only, NOT a food recipe. Wear gloves when handling all plant parts. The pressed specimens retain their toxic properties indefinitely and should be sealed behind glass.

5 ingredients
Lily of the Valley Forcing Arrangement (Indoor Winter Blooms)

Lily of the Valley Forcing Arrangement (Indoor Winter Blooms)

30 minutes plus 3-4 weeks forcing period

Force pre-chilled lily of the valley pips to bloom indoors during winter months for fragrant displays. This is a horticultural technique, NOT a food recipe. Wear gloves when handling rhizomes and keep arrangements away from children, pets, and food surfaces. Dispose of water from the container safely.

5 ingredients
12 · Nutrition

What's inside

Per 100g serving
0
Calories
Vitamin CN/A - NOT EDIBLE
Vitamin AN/A - NOT EDIBLE
PotassiumN/A - NOT EDIBLE
FiberN/A - NOT EDIBLE

Health Benefits

  • CRITICAL WARNING: Convallaria majalis is EXTREMELY TOXIC and must never be ingested, brewed, or used in any homemade herbal preparation under any circumstances
  • Pharmaceutical-grade cardiac glycosides derived from the plant have been studied for use in treating congestive heart failure and certain cardiac arrhythmias, but only under strict medical supervision with precisely controlled dosages
  • The fragrance of lily of the valley in outdoor garden settings is widely reported to have a calming and mood-lifting effect, contributing positively to mental well-being during the spring blooming season
  • Growing convallaria as ornamental ground cover in shaded areas supports garden biodiversity by providing early-season shelter for beneficial ground-dwelling insects and invertebrates
  • Established colonies of lily of the valley provide effective erosion control on shaded slopes and banks where few other ornamental ground covers will thrive
  • The dense leaf canopy produced by convallaria colonies suppresses weed germination and growth, reducing the need for herbicides or labor-intensive hand weeding in shaded garden areas
13 · History

Where Lily of the Valley comes from

Convallaria majalis, commonly known as lily of the valley, is native to the cool temperate regions of the Northern Hemisphere, with its natural range spanning across Europe, from the British Isles and Scandinavia through Central and Eastern Europe, and extending into parts of northern Asia and eastern North America. The plant thrives in the deciduous woodland understory, where it has evolved to exploit the brief window of spring sunlight before the tree canopy fully closes overhead. Archaeological and historical records suggest that humans have cultivated and revered this plant for well over a thousand years. Ancient herbalists, including those in the Anglo-Saxon tradition, referenced the plant for its purported medicinal properties, particularly related to heart ailments, a use that modern pharmacology has validated through the identification of potent cardiac glycosides such as convallatoxin and convallamarin within its tissues. During the medieval period, lily of the valley became deeply embedded in Christian symbolism, associated with the Virgin Mary and frequently depicted in religious art as a symbol of purity, humility, and the return of happiness. The plant's cultural significance reached courtly society when King Charles IX of France established the tradition of gifting lily of the valley sprigs on the first of May in 1561, a custom that persists to this day as La Fete du Muguet. By the Victorian era, the flower had become a staple of bridal bouquets and formal gardens across Europe, prized for its intoxicating fragrance and elegant form. It was introduced widely across North America by European settlers and has since naturalized in many regions, sometimes becoming invasive in favorable conditions. Throughout its long history of cultivation, the plant's extreme toxicity has been well documented, serving as both a cautionary tale and a source of pharmaceutical interest.

14 · Did you know?

Lily of the Valley: did you know?

Fascinating facts about Lily of the Valley

Convallaria majalis has been the national flower of Finland since 1967, symbolizing purity and the return of happiness with spring, despite being one of the most toxic garden plants in the Northern Hemisphere.

15 · FAQ

Lily of the Valley questions, answered

When should I plant Lily of the Valley?
Plant Lily of the Valley in October, November, March. It takes approximately 365 days to reach maturity, with harvest typically in April, May.
What are good companion plants for Lily of the Valley?
Lily of the Valley grows well alongside Hosta, Siberian Bugloss, Hellebore. Companion planting can improve growth, flavor, and natural pest control.
What hardiness zones can Lily of the Valley grow in?
Lily of the Valley thrives in USDA hardiness zones 2 through 9. With greenhouse protection, it may be grown in zones 1 through 10.
How much sun does Lily of the Valley need?
Lily of the Valley requires Partial Sun (3-6h). This means 3-6 hours of sunlight, ideally morning sun with afternoon shade.
How far apart should I space Lily of the Valley?
Space Lily of the Valley plants 15cm (6 inches) apart for optimal growth and air circulation.
What pests and diseases affect Lily of the Valley?
Common issues include Anthracnose, Spider Mites, Stem Rot. Prevention through good garden practices like crop rotation, proper spacing, and companion planting is the best approach. See the detailed pests and diseases section above for symptoms, prevention, and treatment for each.
How do I store Lily of the Valley after harvest?
Lily of the valley is best preserved as dried or forced pips. To force for winter bloom, dig mature pips in late autumn, trim roots to four inches, and refrigerate in damp peat moss for three to four weeks. Pot up and bring into warmth for flowers in about three weeks. For dried arrangements, hang f...
What are the best Lily of the Valley varieties to grow?
Popular varieties include Rosea, Flore Pleno, Albostriata, Fortin's Giant. Each has unique characteristics suited to different growing conditions and culinary preferences. See the varieties section above for detailed descriptions.
What soil does Lily of the Valley need?
Lily of the valley thrives in moist, humus-rich, slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5.0 to 7.0. Amend planting areas with generous quantities of leaf mold, compost, or well-rotted manure. Apply a balanced slow-release fertilizer in early spring as growth emerges and top-dress annually with compost or...
How toxic is lily of the valley, and what should I do if someone ingests it?
Convallaria majalis is extremely toxic. All parts contain over 30 cardiac glycosides, including convallatoxin, which affects heart rhythm and can be fatal. Symptoms of ingestion include nausea, vomiting, abdominal pain, blurred vision, slow or irregular heartbeat, and in severe cases, cardiac arrest. If any part of the plant is ingested, call emergency services or your local poison control center immediately. Do not induce vomiting unless specifically instructed by medical professionals. Bring a sample of the plant to the hospital for identification.
Why is my lily of the valley producing leaves but no flowers?
The most common causes of non-flowering are insufficient winter chilling (the plant needs 8-10 weeks below 5°C), too much shade (it needs some dappled light in spring), overcrowding of the rhizome colony, or excess nitrogen fertilization that promotes leaf growth over flowering. To encourage blooming, divide overcrowded colonies in autumn, ensure the planting site receives at least 2-3 hours of filtered sunlight in spring, and avoid high-nitrogen feeds. Newly planted pips may also take 1-2 years to establish before flowering.
How do I stop lily of the valley from spreading into other parts of my garden?
The most effective method is to install a physical root barrier around the bed. Use rigid plastic or metal edging buried at least 30cm (12 inches) deep, as the rhizomes typically travel in the top 15-20cm of soil. Check the barrier annually for gaps or rhizomes growing over the top. Alternatively, plant convallaria in a contained raised bed with solid sides or in large buried containers with drainage holes. Regular edge maintenance with a sharp spade twice per year in spring and autumn can also help control spread.
Can I grow lily of the valley in containers or indoors?
Yes, convallaria grows well in containers and can be forced into bloom indoors during winter. For container growing outdoors, use a pot at least 20cm deep with drainage holes, filled with humus-rich potting mix. Place in shade and keep consistently moist. For indoor forcing, obtain pre-chilled rhizome pips (or chill your own at 1-3°C for 10-12 weeks), then plant in a shallow container with moist moss or potting mix and keep at 10-15°C in indirect light. Blooms typically appear within 3-4 weeks. Always keep containers out of reach of children and pets.
Is it safe to compost lily of the valley plant material?
It is generally not recommended to compost lily of the valley material, especially in home composting systems. The cardiac glycosides in the plant tissue break down slowly and may persist in finished compost. If this compost is then used on vegetable gardens or areas accessible to children and pets, there is a potential risk of contamination. Instead, dispose of all plant material including dead foliage, spent flowers, and removed berries in sealed bags with your regular household waste. If you must compost it, use only a dedicated ornamental garden compost bin and never apply the resulting compost to edible crop areas.
What pests and diseases commonly affect Convallaria majalis?
Lily of the valley is relatively pest-resistant, likely due to its toxic chemistry. However, it can be affected by Botrytis (gray mold) in humid conditions, which appears as gray fuzzy growth on leaves and flowers. Improve air circulation and avoid overhead watering to prevent this. Leaf spot fungal diseases may cause brown patches on foliage in wet seasons. Vine weevils can notch leaf margins, and their larvae may damage rhizomes underground. Slugs and snails may feed on young emerging shoots in early spring. Spider mites can occasionally affect plants in dry, sheltered locations. Stem nematodes are a less common but serious problem that causes distorted, stunted growth.
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From the “Overview” section
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