Lily

An elegant bulb with large, often fragrant flowers on tall stems, preferring its roots in cool shade and blooms in sun. Plant bulbs in autumn or early spring at a depth of three times the bulb diameter in rich, well-drained soil. Asiatic lilies bloom first in early summer and are unscented, while Oriental varieties follow later with intensely fragrant, larger flowers. Stake tall varieties to prevent wind damage and remove spent flowers promptly, but leave the stem and foliage to nourish the bulb for next year.

Lily bulbs are planted in autumn or early spring at a depth of six to eight inches with the pointed end facing up. Place a handful of coarse sand or gravel beneath each bulb to ensure drainage. For container planting, set bulbs four to five inches deep in a tall, well-drained pot. Lilies can also be propagated by separating offset bulbs from the parent clump in fall, or by scaling: gently breaking individual scales from the mother bulb, dusting with fungicide, and placing in a bag of moist vermiculite at room temperature. Small bulblets form at the scale base in six to eight weeks and can be potted up.

Plant lily bulbs in autumn or early spring in a site that receives at least six hours of direct sun with shade at the base. Lilies prefer their heads in the sun and their roots in cool shade, making them ideal for planting among low-growing perennials or ground covers. Dig holes six to eight inches deep for large bulbs and set them on a handful of coarse sand to ensure drainage beneath the bulb. Space bulbs eight to twelve inches apart.

Lilies are stem-rooting plants, meaning they produce roots along the buried portion of the stem above the bulb. This makes deep planting important and also means that mulching around lily stems helps support the additional root system. Apply three to four inches of organic mulch to keep roots cool and soil evenly moist. Water regularly during the growing season, providing about one inch per week.

Stake tall varieties such as Oriental and trumpet lilies early in the season, using individual stakes or grow-through supports. Remove spent flowers by snapping off the seed pod while leaving as much stem and foliage as possible. The remaining leaves continue to photosynthesize and feed the bulb for next year. Cut stems back only after they have turned brown in fall. Apply a balanced bulb fertilizer in spring as growth begins.

Plant low-growing perennials like hostas, heuchera, and ferns around lily bases to shade the root zone and provide ground-level interest when lilies are not in bloom. Daylilies, phlox, and astilbe make excellent mid-border companions with complementary bloom times. Planting garlic nearby may help deter lily beetles. Avoid planting lilies near strong-growing shrubs whose roots compete for moisture and nutrients. The tall vertical form of lilies contrasts beautifully with rounded shapes like peonies and hydrangeas.

Lilies require well-drained, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5 for most types, though Asiatic lilies tolerate a slightly wider range. Amend the planting area deeply with compost and incorporate coarse sand in heavy clay soils. Apply a balanced bulb fertilizer as shoots emerge in spring and again just as buds begin to form. Top-dress with compost annually. Oriental lilies prefer slightly acidic soil and benefit from an application of sulfur if soil pH is above 6.5.

Ideal Temperature

Hardiness Zone Compatibility

Cut lily stems for arrangements when the first bud on the stem begins to open and show color. Cut stems in the early morning with a sharp knife, leaving at least one-third of the stem and foliage on the plant to nourish the bulb. Remove the orange anthers from open flowers before they shed pollen, which stains fabric and skin. Deadhead spent flowers in the garden by snapping off the seed pod while leaving the green stem intact until it browns naturally in fall.

Storage & Preservation

Fresh lilies last seven to fourteen days in a vase, making them outstanding cut flowers. Remove anthers as flowers open to prevent pollen stains. Change water every two to three days and recut stems. Lily pollen stains can be removed from fabric by lifting with sticky tape rather than rubbing. To dry lilies, press individual flowers between parchment sheets under heavy books. Unlike most bulbs, lily bulbs never go fully dormant and should not be stored dry. If lifting is necessary, replant immediately or store briefly in barely damp peat moss.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Lily bulbs rotting in heavy, wet soil is the most common problem and is prevented by ensuring excellent drainage. Red lily beetles can be devastating if not caught early. Lilies are extremely toxic to cats, and even small amounts of pollen or leaf material can cause fatal kidney failure, so cat owners should exercise extreme caution. Short-stemmed flowers and declining performance usually indicate overcrowding. Deer find lilies highly palatable and may require fencing or repellent.

Growing Tips

1. Plant lily bulbs at a depth equal to three times their height, measured from the base of the bulb to the soil surface, to provide insulation and stability for the tall stems.
2. Choose a planting site where the flowers will receive at least six hours of direct sunlight but the root zone is shaded by low-growing companion plants or a layer of organic mulch.
3. Ensure excellent drainage by amending heavy clay soil with coarse sand, perlite, or planting in raised beds, as waterlogged conditions will quickly rot lily bulbs.
4. Apply a balanced slow-release fertilizer in early spring as shoots emerge and a phosphorus-rich feed when buds begin forming to support robust flowering.
5. Stake tall varieties when stems reach 30 centimeters rather than waiting until they are top-heavy with buds, using bamboo canes or metal plant supports with soft ties.
6. Remove spent flowers immediately after petals drop but leave the entire stem and foliage in place until it yellows naturally in autumn, as premature cutting starves the bulb.
7. Watch for the bright red lily beetle (Lilioceris lilii) and its larvae from spring onward. Hand-pick adults and check the undersides of leaves for larvae hidden in their own dark excrement.
8. Avoid planting lilies in areas where other lilies or tulips grew in the past three years to reduce the risk of soilborne fungal diseases such as fusarium basal rot.
9. Divide overcrowded clumps in early autumn by carefully lifting the entire cluster, separating individual bulbs and bulblets, and replanting immediately at the correct depth and spacing.
10. In containers, use deep pots of at least 30 centimeters and a fast-draining potting mix. Plant three bulbs per 30-centimeter pot for a full display and refresh the soil annually.