Flowers · Cut FlowersAlstroemeria aurea

Peruvian Lily

A tuberous perennial producing exotic lily-like flowers in vibrant yellows, oranges, pinks, and bicolors that last up to two weeks as cut flowers.

Full Sun (6-8h+)Medium (even moisture)365 daysDifficultyBeginner Friendly
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Peruvian Lily
Sow & harvest reminderstuned to your local frost dates
Sunlight
Full Sun (6-8h+)
Water Need
Medium (even moisture)
Frost Tolerance
Half-Hardy (light frost)
Days to Maturity
365 days
Plant Spacing
30 cm
12 in
Hardiness Zones
Zone 7–10
USDA
Difficulty
Beginner Friendly
Expected Yield
20 to
On this pageOverview
01 · Overview

Meet Peruvian Lily

A tuberous perennial producing exotic lily-like flowers in vibrant yellows, oranges, pinks, and bicolors that last up to two weeks as cut flowers. Alstroemeria stems should be pulled rather than cut from the base to stimulate new growth. Mulch heavily in winter to protect the shallow tubers from frost in colder zones.

365
days from seed to your first harvest. Time your whole season around it — sow, feed and pick dates all key off this one number.
02 · When to plant

When to plant Peruvian Lily

Alstroemeria can be grown from seed, but germination is slow and erratic. Sow seeds in moist compost and cold-stratify for four to six weeks before providing warmth at 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Seeds may take four to twelve weeks to germinate. Seedlings grow slowly and typically flower in their second or third year. Division of established clumps in spring is a much faster propagation method, producing flowering plants the same or following season.

Planting & harvest schedule

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Your last frostApr 16 · average for your zone
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First harvestMar 15 · from sowing to first pick
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03 · Growing guide

How to grow Peruvian Lily

Plant alstroemeria tubers in spring, setting them six to eight inches deep with the growing points facing up, spacing them twelve inches apart in rich, well-drained soil. Choose a location in full sun to light afternoon shade with shelter from strong winds. The deep planting depth is critical for winter survival in cooler zones and helps prevent the tuberous roots from heaving out of the ground.

Water regularly during the growing season, keeping soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Feed every two to three weeks with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer once growth is established to promote abundant flowering. A thick mulch of straw or bark in late autumn provides critical winter protection in zones 7 and 8.

The key to keeping alstroemeria blooming is to pull stems from the base rather than cutting them. Grasp the stem near the ground and give a firm, twisting pull to detach it cleanly from the tuberous root. This stimulates the production of new flowering shoots from the root system. Cutting stems instead of pulling actually reduces future flower production. Once established, alstroemeria becomes increasingly productive each year.

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04 · Companions

Peruvian Lily's best neighbours

Alstroemeria combines beautifully with roses, dahlias, and ornamental grasses in mixed borders. Plant in front of taller perennials and behind low edging plants for a tiered effect. In cutting gardens, grow alongside other long-lasting cut flowers like zinnias and snapdragons. The exotic, lily-like flowers add a tropical feel to temperate garden plantings. Avoid crowding with aggressive spreaders that might compete with the expanding tuberous root system.

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05 · Soil & feeding

Feed it well

Alstroemeria thrives in rich, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Amend the planting area with compost and ensure drainage is excellent, as the tuberous roots are sensitive to waterlogging. Feed every two to three weeks with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer during the growing season. Apply a balanced granular fertilizer in early spring. In containers, use a premium potting mix with added perlite and feed weekly during active growth.

Ideal Temperature

5°C – 25°C
0°C10°C20°C30°C

Hardiness Zone Compatibility

12345678910111213
Ideal (zones 7-10)Greenhouse / protection neededNot recommended
06 · Growth stages

From seed to harvest, stage by stage

0–21 days

Tuberous Root Establishment

Alstroemeria is typically started from tuberous root divisions or nursery transplants rather than seed, as seed germination is slow and unpredictable. Newly planted tubers need time to anchor their fleshy storage roots into the surrounding soil and begin absorbing moisture and nutrients. The roots are brittle and must be handled carefully during planting to avoid breakage.

21–45 days

Shoot Emergence

Slender green shoots push through the soil surface and begin developing the characteristic lance-shaped leaves. Alstroemeria leaves are resupinate, meaning they twist 180 degrees at the petiole so the lower surface faces upward. This unusual trait is a reliable way to identify the plant. Multiple shoots typically emerge from each tuber cluster.

45–90 days

Vegetative Growth

Stems elongate rapidly, reaching 60-90 cm in height depending on the cultivar. The foliage becomes dense and lush as the plant builds energy reserves in its underground tubers. The root system expands laterally, sending out new tuberous offshoots that will produce additional stems in subsequent seasons. Strong vegetative growth during this phase is essential for abundant flowering.

90–150 days

Bud Formation and Flowering

Terminal flower buds form at the top of mature stems, each producing an umbel-like cluster of three to eight individual blooms. The six-petaled flowers are zygomorphic, with the inner two upper petals bearing distinctive dark streaks and spots that serve as nectar guides for pollinators. Each stem produces flowers that open sequentially over seven to fourteen days, extending the display period.

150–210 days

Repeat Flowering and Dormancy Preparation

Many modern Alstroemeria cultivars are repeat-blooming and will produce successive flushes of flowers from late spring through early autumn if spent stems are removed promptly. As day length shortens and temperatures cool in autumn, flowering slows and the plant redirects energy to its tuberous roots for winter storage. Foliage may yellow naturally as dormancy approaches.

210–270 days

Winter Dormancy

In temperate climates the above-ground foliage dies back completely and the plant rests as dormant tuberous roots underground. The fleshy storage roots sustain the plant through winter, holding carbohydrate reserves that fuel vigorous regrowth the following spring. In mild climates with minimal frost, some cultivars remain semi-evergreen and may retain a low rosette of foliage throughout winter.

Care Tip

Plant tubers 15-20 cm deep with the growing eyes facing upward. Water in thoroughly after planting but avoid saturating the soil, as the fleshy roots are prone to rot in waterlogged conditions. Mulch lightly to maintain even soil moisture.

Young Alstroemeria shoots emerging from tuberous roots in spring
New Alstroemeria stems pushing through the soil from established tuberous root clumps in early spring
07 · Monthly care

Caring for Peruvian Lily month by month

What to do each month for your Peruvian Lily

July

You are here

No specific care tasks for this month.

08 · Harvest

Harvesting Peruvian Lily

Pull alstroemeria stems from the base rather than cutting them, which stimulates new shoot production. Harvest when the first one or two florets in the cluster have opened and the upper buds are still coloring. Pulled stems last an exceptional ten to fourteen days in clean water, making alstroemeria one of the longest-lasting cut flowers available. Remove any foliage that would sit below the waterline. The flowers do not wilt gracefully and should be discarded when petals begin to drop.

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Harvest trackercounting from planting
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Started from
365days until harvest
Right now: Tuberous Root Establishment0%
PlantedJun 15, 2024
Harvest windowJun 15, 2025Jul 15, 2025
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Storage & Preservation

Alstroemeria tubers should remain in the ground year-round within their hardiness range, protected by deep mulch in winter. If lifting is necessary, dig carefully in autumn, divide tubers gently, and store in barely damp peat moss at 40 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit. The cut flowers dry poorly and are not suitable for preservation. For propagation, divide established clumps in spring or early autumn, ensuring each division has several growing points.

09 · Pests

What goes wrong — and the fix

Slugs and Snails

Pest

Irregular holes in emerging leaves and flower buds. Slime trails visible on foliage, particularly on young growth in spring.

Prevention Apply iron phosphate slug bait around emerging shoots in spring. Keep the garden area clean of debris that provides hiding places.
Fix: Hand-pick slugs at dusk. Apply organic slug pellets or create beer traps near vulnerable plants. Copper tape around containers is effective.

Virus (Alstroemeria Mosaic)

Disease

Yellow streaking and mottling on leaves. Distorted growth, reduced flower production, and poor plant vigor over time.

Prevention Purchase virus-tested stock from reputable nurseries. Control aphids which transmit the virus. Sterilize cutting tools between plants.
Fix: There is no cure for virus infections. Remove and destroy affected plants immediately to prevent spread to healthy stock.

Root Rot

Disease

Yellowing foliage, wilting despite adequate moisture. Roots appear dark and mushy when examined. Plant declines gradually.

Prevention Ensure excellent drainage, especially during winter. Avoid overwatering and heavy, poorly drained soils.
Fix: Improve drainage. Lift tubers, cut away rotted portions, dust with fungicide, and replant in better-drained soil. Reduce watering frequency.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

The most common mistake is cutting stems instead of pulling them, which dramatically reduces future flower production. Winter hardiness is limited, and tubers may be lost in severe winters without adequate mulch protection in zones 7 and 8. Shallow planting is another frequent error, as tubers need to be set six to eight inches deep for best performance and winter survival. Contact with the foliage can cause skin irritation in sensitive individuals.

Growing Tips

  1. Plant Alstroemeria tubers 15-20 cm deep in well-drained soil enriched with compost. Deep planting protects the roots from temperature extremes and helps anchor the tall stems against wind.
  2. Choose a position in full sun to partial shade. In regions with hot summers above 30 degrees Celsius, afternoon shade is beneficial as excessive heat causes plants to stop flowering and enter premature dormancy.
  3. Pull flowering stems from the base rather than cutting them with shears. Grasping the stem near soil level and giving a firm steady pull removes the entire stem from the rhizome and triggers the plant to produce replacement shoots more quickly than cutting.
  4. Remove blind or non-flowering stems by pulling them from the base as well. These unproductive stems consume energy that could otherwise fuel flower production, and removing them keeps the clump tidy and vigorous.
  5. Water deeply once or twice per week rather than frequent shallow watering. Alstroemeria roots reach 20-30 cm below the surface, and deep watering encourages the root system to develop fully. Avoid waterlogging which causes tuber rot.
  6. Apply a balanced granular fertilizer in early spring as new growth emerges, then switch to a high-potassium liquid feed every two to three weeks once flower buds begin forming. Potassium promotes strong stems and vivid flower color.
  7. Mulch around plants with 5-8 cm of organic material to maintain cool, even soil moisture and suppress competing weeds. Keep mulch a few centimeters away from the crown to prevent stem rot at the base.
  8. Divide overcrowded clumps every three to four years in early spring or after flowering finishes in autumn. Carefully lift the entire clump with a garden fork, separate into sections with three to five tubers each, and replant immediately at the original depth.
  9. In cold climates where winter temperatures drop below minus 7 degrees Celsius, apply a thick protective mulch layer of 10-15 cm of straw or shredded leaves over the root zone after the first hard frost to insulate the tubers from freeze damage.
  10. When conditioning freshly cut stems for arrangements, strip all foliage that would sit below the waterline, recut the stem base at an angle, and place immediately in clean water with floral preservative. Change the vase water every three days to maximize the 14 to 21 day vase life.
10 · Varieties

Pick your Peruvian Lily

Indian Summer

Warm orange and gold flowers with dark speckling, one of the hardiest varieties for outdoor cultivation.

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Princess Lilies

A compact series reaching eighteen inches, ideal for containers and the front of borders, available in a wide color range.

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Inca Ice

Soft apricot and pink bicolor flowers on sturdy stems, excellent for cutting and garden display.

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Friendship

Pale yellow flowers with delicate brown freckling, a classic variety prized for its vase life and elegant appearance.

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Why Grow Your Own?

A single Alstroemeria plant costing $8-15 from a nursery can produce 20-40 stems per season over many years, as the perennial tubers return and multiply annually. A mixed supermarket bouquet containing 10 Alstroemeria stems typically costs $8-15, meaning one established garden clump can replace $16-60 worth of store-bought flowers each growing season. After three to four years, a single original plant will have multiplied into a clump large enough to divide into four to six new plants, compounding the savings further. Over a five-year period, an initial investment of $30-50 in three to four plants can easily yield $300-600 worth of cut flowers.

11 · Recipes

Quick recipes

Long-Lasting Mixed Alstroemeria Bouquet

Long-Lasting Mixed Alstroemeria Bouquet

15 minutes

A stunning hand-tied bouquet combining multiple Alstroemeria colors that will last two to three weeks with proper care. The key to maximizing vase life is proper stem conditioning immediately after harvest, including removing lower foliage and using floral preservative in clean water. This arrangement works beautifully as a centerpiece or gift.

6 ingredients
Pressed Alstroemeria Botanical Art

Pressed Alstroemeria Botanical Art

20 minutes active plus 2-3 weeks pressing

Preserve the beauty of Alstroemeria blooms by pressing individual flowers and petals for use in framed botanical art, greeting cards, or resin jewelry. The streaked inner petals press particularly well and retain their markings beautifully. Select freshly opened blooms for the best color retention.

6 ingredients
Alstroemeria Flower Crown for Events

Alstroemeria Flower Crown for Events

30 minutes

A beautiful wearable flower crown made with fresh Alstroemeria blooms, perfect for garden parties, weddings, or photo shoots. Alstroemeria's natural durability means the crown will look fresh throughout an entire event without wilting. Choose coordinating colors to match the occasion's theme.

6 ingredients
12 · Nutrition

What's inside

Per 100g serving
0
Calories
Vitamin CN/A — ornamental, not edible
Vitamin AN/A — ornamental, not edible
PotassiumN/A — ornamental, not edible
FiberN/A — ornamental, not edible

Health Benefits

  • Having fresh cut flowers like Alstroemeria in living and working spaces has been shown in multiple studies to reduce stress, lower cortisol levels, and promote feelings of relaxation and emotional well-being
  • Research published in the Journal of Physiological Anthropology found that actively caring for and arranging flowers can lower sympathetic nervous system activity, reducing blood pressure and heart rate
  • The presence of fresh flowers in hospital rooms has been associated with reduced post-operative pain perception and lower anxiety levels in patients, according to studies conducted at Kansas State University
  • Growing and arranging cut flowers like Alstroemeria provides gentle physical activity and fine motor engagement that can be beneficial for older adults and those in horticultural therapy programs
  • Exposure to natural elements including fresh flowers has been linked to improved concentration, creativity, and productivity in workplace environments, a concept supported by biophilic design research
  • The act of gardening and tending cut flower beds provides meaningful outdoor activity that supports vitamin D production, cardiovascular fitness, and improved sleep quality through natural light exposure
13 · History

Where Peruvian Lily comes from

Alstroemeria, commonly known as the Peruvian lily or lily of the Incas, is a genus of flowering plants native to South America. The approximately 120 wild species are concentrated in two primary centers of diversity: the winter-rainfall deserts and Mediterranean-climate regions of central Chile, and the tropical and subtropical highlands of eastern Brazil. Some species also occur naturally in Peru, Bolivia, and Argentina. The plants evolved in the cool montane environments of the Andes, which explains their preference for moderate temperatures and their sensitivity to extreme heat. European discovery of Alstroemeria dates to the 18th century, when the Swedish botanist Baron Clas Alstroemer collected seeds during a voyage to South America in 1753. He sent the seeds to his close friend Carl Linnaeus, who named the genus in Alstroemer's honor. Initial European cultivation was largely confined to botanical gardens and the collections of wealthy plant enthusiasts, as the plants proved somewhat challenging under northern European conditions. The transformation of Alstroemeria from botanical curiosity to global cut flower staple began in the Netherlands during the 1960s and 1970s. Dutch breeders, particularly at the Van Staaveren and Könst companies, undertook intensive hybridization programs crossing Chilean and Brazilian species to produce cultivars with larger flowers, longer stems, extended vase life, and a dramatically expanded color palette. These breeding efforts yielded compact series like the Princess and Inca lines that revolutionized commercial production. Today Alstroemeria ranks among the top ten most traded cut flowers worldwide, with the Netherlands, Colombia, and Kenya serving as major production centers. The flower has become a staple of supermarket bouquets and florist arrangements globally, prized for its extraordinary vase life of two to three weeks, its wide color range spanning white through pink, red, orange, yellow, and purple, and its relatively low production cost compared to roses and lilies.

14 · Did you know?

Peruvian Lily: did you know?

Fascinating facts about Peruvian Lily

Alstroemeria flowers are sometimes called the friendship flower because they symbolize mutual support and devotion, making them one of the most popular choices for bouquets celebrating lasting bonds between friends.

15 · FAQ

Peruvian Lily questions, answered

When should I plant Peruvian Lily?
Plant Peruvian Lily in March, April. It takes approximately 365 days to reach maturity, with harvest typically in June, July, August, September.
What are good companion plants for Peruvian Lily?
Peruvian Lily grows well alongside Dahlia, Rose, Snapdragon. Companion planting can improve growth, flavor, and natural pest control.
What hardiness zones can Peruvian Lily grow in?
Peruvian Lily thrives in USDA hardiness zones 7 through 10. With greenhouse protection, it may be grown in zones 5 through 11.
How much sun does Peruvian Lily need?
Peruvian Lily requires Full Sun (6-8h+). This means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
How far apart should I space Peruvian Lily?
Space Peruvian Lily plants 30cm (12 inches) apart for optimal growth and air circulation.
What pests and diseases affect Peruvian Lily?
Common issues include Slugs and Snails, Virus (Alstroemeria Mosaic), Root Rot. Prevention through good garden practices like crop rotation, proper spacing, and companion planting is the best approach. See the detailed pests and diseases section above for symptoms, prevention, and treatment for each.
How do I store Peruvian Lily after harvest?
Alstroemeria tubers should remain in the ground year-round within their hardiness range, protected by deep mulch in winter. If lifting is necessary, dig carefully in autumn, divide tubers gently, and store in barely damp peat moss at 40 to 45 degrees Fahrenheit. The cut flowers dry poorly and are no...
What are the best Peruvian Lily varieties to grow?
Popular varieties include Indian Summer, Princess Lilies, Inca Ice, Friendship. Each has unique characteristics suited to different growing conditions and culinary preferences. See the varieties section above for detailed descriptions.
What soil does Peruvian Lily need?
Alstroemeria thrives in rich, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Amend the planting area with compost and ensure drainage is excellent, as the tuberous roots are sensitive to waterlogging. Feed every two to three weeks with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer during the growing season. Apply ...
Why has my Alstroemeria stopped flowering in midsummer?
Alstroemeria is sensitive to heat and will stop producing flowers when soil temperatures exceed approximately 21 degrees Celsius or air temperatures consistently rise above 30 degrees Celsius. This summer dormancy is a natural survival mechanism inherited from its Andean origins. To mitigate this, mulch heavily to keep roots cool, provide afternoon shade in hot climates, and water deeply during heat waves. Flowering typically resumes when temperatures moderate in late summer or early autumn.
Should I cut or pull Alstroemeria stems when harvesting?
Always pull rather than cut. Grasp the stem near ground level and give a firm, steady, upward pull to detach the entire stem from the underground rhizome. This technique stimulates the rhizome to produce new replacement shoots more rapidly than cutting, which leaves a stub that can rot and potentially introduce disease. Pulling also removes the entire stem cleanly, improving air circulation within the clump.
How do I extend the vase life of cut Alstroemeria flowers?
Alstroemeria naturally lasts 14 to 21 days as a cut flower, and proper conditioning can push this toward the upper end. Harvest stems in the early morning when they are fully hydrated. Remove all foliage below the waterline to prevent bacterial growth. Recut stems at a sharp angle and place immediately in clean water with commercial floral preservative. Keep the vase away from direct sunlight, heating vents, and fruit bowls, as ethylene gas from ripening fruit accelerates flower aging. Change the water and retrim stems every three days.
Can I grow Alstroemeria in containers?
Yes, compact cultivars such as the Inca and Princess series perform very well in large containers of at least 30 cm diameter and depth. Use a well-draining potting mix combining equal parts compost, perlite, and quality potting soil. Ensure the container has adequate drainage holes as waterlogged roots quickly rot. Container plants require more frequent watering and feeding than those in the ground. Move pots to a sheltered frost-free location in winter or insulate with bubble wrap to protect the tubers.
Is Alstroemeria toxic to pets or humans?
Alstroemeria is not considered highly toxic, but it does contain tulipalin A, a compound that can cause mild contact dermatitis and skin irritation in sensitive individuals, particularly when handling stems and foliage repeatedly. Wearing gloves is recommended when processing large quantities of cut stems. If ingested by cats or dogs, it may cause mild gastrointestinal upset including drooling, vomiting, or diarrhea. The ASPCA lists Alstroemeria as mildly toxic to cats and dogs but not life-threatening.
When is the best time to divide and transplant Alstroemeria?
The best time to divide Alstroemeria is in early spring just as new shoots begin to emerge, or in early autumn after flowering has finished. Carefully lift the entire clump with a garden fork, taking care not to damage the brittle tuberous roots. Gently separate into divisions each containing three to five tubers with visible growing eyes. Replant immediately at the same depth of 15-20 cm in soil enriched with compost. Water in thoroughly and keep consistently moist until new growth confirms establishment. Avoid dividing in midsummer when the plant is actively flowering.
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