Garlic
VegetablesAlliumsBeginner Friendly

Garlic

Allium sativum

At a Glance

SunlightFull Sun (6-8h+)
Water NeedLow (drought-tolerant)
Frost ToleranceHardy (withstands frost)
Days to Maturity240 days
Plant Spacing15cm (6″)
Hardiness ZonesZone 3–9
DifficultyBeginner Friendly
Expected YieldOne clove produces o

A cold-hardy allium planted in autumn and harvested the following summer, requiring a chilling period to form cloves. Choose hardneck varieties for cold climates and enjoy their bonus edible scapes in spring, or softneck types for milder regions and longer storage. Plant individual cloves pointed end up in well-drained soil mulched with straw to protect against winter heaving. Harvest when the lower third of leaves have browned, then cure in a dry, airy space for several weeks.

Planting & Harvest Calendar

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PlantingHarvestYou are here240 days to maturity

Growth Stages

From Seed to Harvest

Garlic - Planting & Root Establishment

Planting & Root Establishment

Days 0–30

Individual cloves are planted in fall, 4-6 weeks before the ground freezes. Below the surface, roots grow actively even as air temperatures drop. Cloves develop a robust root system of 10-15 cm before the ground freezes solid, anchoring them for winter.

💡 Care Tip

Plant cloves 5 cm deep, pointed end up, spaced 15 cm apart. Apply 10-15 cm of straw mulch immediately after planting to insulate against freeze-thaw cycles and prevent heaving.

Garlic cloves being planted in fall garden bed

Plant individual cloves pointed end up in autumn

Monthly Care Calendar

What to do each month for your Garlic

May

You are here

Rapid leaf growth continues. Apply a second nitrogen side-dressing 3-4 weeks after the first. Keep beds weeded — garlic competes poorly with weeds due to its narrow upright growth. Water 2.5 cm per week if rainfall is insufficient.

Did You Know?

Fascinating facts about Garlic

Garlic has been cultivated for over 5,000 years, making it one of the oldest known cultivated plants. Ancient Egyptian records show that garlic was fed to the workers who built the Great Pyramids to boost their strength and endurance.

Garlic is planted in autumn, grows through winter and spring, and is harvested the following summer — it needs a cold period of 4-8 weeks below 4°C (40°F) to trigger proper clove differentiation. There are two main types: hardneck varieties produce a rigid central stalk, fewer but larger cloves, edible flower scapes, and are best for cold climates (zones 3-6); softneck varieties produce many smaller cloves in multiple layers, store much longer, and are suited to milder regions (zones 6-9). Plant 4-6 weeks before the ground freezes in your area, typically mid-October to November.

Break bulbs into individual cloves just before planting, selecting only the largest, healthiest outer cloves for planting — small inner cloves produce small bulbs. Plant cloves 5 cm (2 inches) deep and 15 cm apart, pointed end up, in well-drained soil enriched with compost. Immediately after planting, apply 10-15 cm of straw mulch to insulate the soil, moderate temperature fluctuations, and prevent winter heaving that can push cloves out of the ground.

In spring, green shoots emerge through the mulch and grow rapidly. Maintain mulch, water regularly as the weather warms, and side-dress with nitrogen fertilizer in early spring when growth resumes. For hardneck varieties, snap off the curling flower scapes when they make one full loop — this redirects the plant's energy from flower production to bulb sizing. Scapes are a delicious culinary bonus with a mild garlic flavor. Stop watering 2-3 weeks before harvest to allow bulbs to dry and wrapper layers to form properly.

Braided softneck garlic hanging for decorative storage

Braiding softneck garlic is both practical and beautiful

Garlic originated in the mountainous regions of Central Asia — modern-day Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan — where wild garlic species still grow today. From these origins, garlic spread along ancient trade routes in both directions: westward through the Middle East and Mediterranean, and eastward into China and the Indian subcontinent. Archaeological evidence confirms garlic cultivation dating back over 5,000 years, with clay models of garlic bulbs found in Egyptian tombs dating to 3700 BCE.

Ancient civilizations revered garlic as both food and medicine. The Egyptians fed it to pyramid laborers for strength, placed clay bulbs in pharaohs' tombs, and used it medicinally. Greek and Roman soldiers consumed garlic before battle for courage and stamina — Hippocrates prescribed it for a wide range of ailments. In ancient India, garlic was valued in Ayurvedic medicine but avoided by certain religious sects who believed its stimulating properties interfered with meditation. Chinese medicine has used garlic for over 4,000 years to treat respiratory infections and digestive problems.

Garlic arrived in the Americas with Spanish and Portuguese colonists in the 1500s and quickly naturalized. For centuries, garlic was associated with working-class and immigrant cuisine in English-speaking countries and was derided by upper-class cooks. It was not until the mid-20th century, with the rise of interest in Mediterranean and Asian cooking, that garlic gained mainstream acceptance in American and British kitchens. Today, global garlic production exceeds 28 million tonnes annually, and garlic is recognized by modern science for its cardiovascular, antimicrobial, and immune-boosting properties — validating millennia of traditional medicinal use.

Garlic is planted as individual cloves, not from true seed — though garlic does produce true botanical seed from its flowers (called bulbils), this method takes 2-3 years to produce full-sized bulbs and is mainly used by breeders. For home gardeners, purchase certified disease-free seed garlic from a reputable grower rather than planting grocery store garlic, which may be treated with sprout inhibitors, could carry soil-borne diseases, and may be a variety poorly suited to your climate. Order seed garlic in summer for fall delivery — popular varieties sell out quickly.

Break bulbs into individual cloves no more than 48 hours before planting, selecting only the largest, healthiest outer cloves — each clove produces one new bulb, and larger cloves produce larger bulbs. Discard any cloves with soft spots, mold, or blue-green discoloration. Plant 4-6 weeks before the ground freezes in fall — this gives roots time to establish a strong root system (10-15 cm of root growth) before winter dormancy, without allowing enough top growth to be damaged by hard freezes. Set cloves 5 cm (2 inches) deep and 15 cm apart, with the pointed end facing up and the flat basal plate down.

Immediately after planting, cover beds with 10-15 cm of straw, shredded leaves, or seed-free hay mulch. This insulation protects cloves from freeze-thaw cycles that cause heaving, moderates soil temperature, and suppresses early spring weeds. In spring, green shoots will push through the mulch — do not remove the mulch, as it continues to retain moisture and suppress weeds throughout the growing season. For mild-winter areas (zones 8-9) where the ground rarely freezes, plant softneck varieties in late January through February, as they require less cold vernalization than hardneck types.

Garlic needs fertile, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0 and plenty of organic matter. Before planting in fall, amend beds with 5-8 cm of well-aged compost worked into the top 20 cm of soil. Add bone meal or rock phosphate for phosphorus, which supports the vigorous root development garlic needs during its winter establishment phase. Garlic absolutely cannot tolerate waterlogged soil — in heavy clay, plant in raised beds at least 15-20 cm tall to ensure drainage, as sitting in wet soil causes cloves to rot before they ever sprout.

Garlic is a moderate but steady feeder with specific timing needs. Apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer such as blood meal, fish emulsion, or a balanced organic fertilizer (10-10-10) in early spring as soon as green growth resumes, and again 3-4 weeks later. This spring nitrogen push fuels the rapid leaf growth that drives bulb sizing — each leaf the plant produces corresponds to one wrapper layer on the bulb, so more leaves means larger, better-wrapped bulbs. Stop all nitrogen applications by late spring once bulbs begin swelling (typically when you can feel a bulge at the soil line), as late nitrogen encourages soft, poorly storing bulbs.

Potassium is the other critical nutrient for garlic, supporting bulb development, disease resistance, and storage quality. Apply wood ash, sulfate of potash, or kelp meal alongside your spring nitrogen applications. Sandy soils drain well but need extra compost for moisture retention and fertility; they may also require more frequent light fertilizer applications since nutrients leach quickly. A sulfur-based fertilizer can benefit garlic flavor development, as sulfur compounds are responsible for garlic's characteristic pungency and many of its health benefits.

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Ideal (zones 3-9)Greenhouse / protection neededNot recommended

Check Your Zone

See if Garlic is suitable for your location.

0°C – 24°C

32°F – 75°F

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Garlic is remarkably cold-hardy, surviving winter temperatures as low as -30°C (-22°F) when properly mulched. It requires 4-8 weeks of cold below 4°C (40°F) for vernalization and proper clove formation. Active leaf growth occurs between 10-24°C (50-75°F). Bulbing is triggered by lengthening days and warming temperatures. Excessive heat above 30°C (86°F) during bulbing can cause waxy breakdown.

Common issues affecting Garlic and how to prevent and treat them organically.

Garlic not forming cloves (producing a single round bulb, called a 'round') means it did not receive enough cold vernalization — ensure it is planted in fall with time for 4-8 weeks of temperatures below 4°C (40°F). This is the most common problem for gardeners in mild-winter climates trying to grow hardneck varieties. Rounds are still perfectly edible and can be replanted the following fall for a second chance at proper clove formation. Small bulbs usually result from late planting, crowding, insufficient fertility, or weed competition during the critical spring growth period when bulbs are sizing up.

Bulbs splitting open in the ground indicate late harvest — the wrappers have deteriorated and cloves have separated, exposing them to soil moisture and disease. Check maturity regularly once lower leaves start browning, and harvest promptly when 40-50% of leaves have died back. Waxy breakdown, where cloves become translucent and sticky, is caused by excessive heat during bulb development or harvesting in very hot conditions — harvest in the morning when temperatures are cooler. Double-cloved garlic (cloves within cloves) is a genetic trait common in some Artichoke-type softneck varieties and is not a problem.

Garlic turning blue or green in pickled preparations or when cooked with acid is a harmless reaction between sulfur compounds and trace amounts of copper, and is completely safe to eat — it is not a sign of spoilage. Scapes left on hardneck varieties divert significant energy from bulb development — remove them when they form a full curl for a 10-30% increase in bulb size. Yellowing leaves in spring before bulbing time may indicate nitrogen deficiency, overwatering, or root disease — check roots for signs of white rot or nematode damage before assuming it is a nutrient issue.

Garlic
Keep away from

Garlic is one of the most powerful companion plants due to its sulfur compounds that repel a wide range of pests. Planted near roses, garlic deters aphids, Japanese beetles, and fungal diseases. Tomatoes benefit from garlic's ability to repel spider mites and red spider mites. Fruit trees underplanted with garlic show reduced borer activity. Carrots and garlic are mutually beneficial — garlic repels carrot rust fly while carrots loosen soil around garlic bulbs. Avoid planting near peas, beans, and other legumes — garlic's sulfur compounds inhibit nitrogen-fixing bacteria essential for legume growth.

  • 1Plant garlic in fall, not spring. Garlic needs 4-8 weeks of cold temperatures below 4°C (40°F) to form proper cloves. Spring-planted garlic often produces small, poorly formed bulbs because it misses this critical vernalization period.
  • 2Choose the right type for your climate: hardneck varieties for cold climates (zones 3-6) produce fewer but larger cloves and delicious scapes; softneck varieties for mild climates (zones 6-9) store much longer and can be braided.
  • 3Always plant the largest cloves — small inner cloves produce small bulbs. Save only the biggest, healthiest outer cloves for planting and use the smaller ones in the kitchen. Each generation of selecting the best improves your strain.
  • 4Mulch is non-negotiable. Apply 10-15 cm of straw or shredded leaf mulch immediately after planting. This insulates cloves from freeze-thaw heaving, retains moisture, and suppresses spring weeds — garlic's narrow leaves compete poorly with weeds.
  • 5Remove scapes from hardneck varieties when they form one full curl — this simple step redirects the plant's energy from flower production to bulb sizing and can increase bulb weight by 10-30%. Bonus: scapes are delicious.
  • 6Stop watering 2-3 weeks before harvest. This allows the outer wrapper layers to dry and tighten around the bulb, dramatically improving storage life. Bulbs harvested from wet soil have thin, fragile wrappers that tear easily.
  • 7Never skip curing. Freshly dug garlic must be dried for 3-4 weeks in a warm (27°C / 80°F), dry, well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight. Uncured garlic has a short shelf life and muted flavor compared to properly cured bulbs.
  • 8Buy seed garlic from reputable growers, not the grocery store. Grocery garlic may be treated with sprout inhibitors, could carry soil-borne diseases like white rot or nematodes, and may be a variety unsuited to your climate and day length.

Garlic is ready to harvest when the lower third to half of the leaves have turned brown while upper leaves remain green — typically late June to July depending on your climate and planting date. Do not wait until all leaves are brown, as the wrapper layers that protect bulbs during storage will have deteriorated, leaving cloves exposed and prone to mold. Each green leaf corresponds to one papery wrapper layer on the bulb, so more green leaves at harvest means better-protected bulbs. Loosen soil with a digging fork inserted several inches away from the bulb, then gently lift — never pull by the stalk, as it can separate from the bulb and introduce rot.

Curing is essential for long-term storage. Immediately after harvest, brush off loose soil but do not wash the bulbs — moisture encourages fungal growth. Hang bundles of 8-10 plants or spread bulbs in a single layer on screens or drying racks in a warm (27°C / 80°F), dry, well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight. A covered porch, garage, or barn works well. Curing takes 3-4 weeks, during which the outer wrappers become papery, the necks dry completely, and the flavor mellows and concentrates.

Once cured, trim roots to 6mm and cut stalks to 2-3 cm above the bulb — or braid softneck varieties for decorative hanging storage. Inspect each bulb and set aside any with damaged wrappers, soft spots, or exposed cloves for immediate kitchen use rather than storage. Save your largest, best-formed bulbs from your strongest plants as seed garlic for next fall's planting — this practice of selecting the best bulbs year after year gradually adapts your garlic strain to your specific growing conditions.

Freshly harvested garlic bulbs with roots and stalks

Harvest when lower leaves brown but upper leaves remain green

Properly cured garlic stores remarkably well when kept in the right conditions. Softneck varieties are the storage champions, keeping 9-12 months at 15-18°C (60-65°F) with good air circulation and 60-70% humidity. Hardneck types store for 4-6 months under the same conditions. Avoid storing garlic in the refrigerator — temperatures between 0-10°C (32-50°F) trigger sprouting by mimicking the cold period garlic needs before growing. Mesh bags, open baskets, or paper bags all work well. Braiding softneck garlic and hanging it in a cool, dry room is both decorative and practical, and keeps bulbs well-ventilated.

For longer preservation, several methods work excellently. Peel and freeze whole cloves in airtight bags for up to 12 months — frozen cloves grate easily on a microplane straight from the freezer. Roast whole heads at 200°C (400°F) for 40 minutes, squeeze out the soft golden paste, and freeze in ice cube trays for instant cooking flavor. Dehydrate thin clove slices at 57°C (135°F) for 6-8 hours until crisp, then grind into homemade garlic powder that far surpasses store-bought. Fermented black garlic, made by holding whole bulbs at 60°C (140°F) and high humidity for 3-4 weeks, produces a sweet, complex ingredient prized in gourmet cooking.

Garlic can be safely preserved in vinegar (pickled garlic) and will keep for several months refrigerated. However, garlic should never be stored in oil at room temperature due to the serious risk of botulism — the anaerobic, low-acid environment of oil is ideal for Clostridium botulinum growth. Garlic-infused oil must be kept refrigerated and used within a week, or frozen for longer storage. Commercially produced garlic-in-oil products contain acidifiers that make them shelf-stable, but homemade versions lack this safety measure.

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Nutritional Info

Per 100g serving

149

Calories

Vitamin C31mg (34% DV)
Vitamin A9 IU (0% DV)
Potassium401mg (11% DV)
Fiber2.1g (8% DV)

Health Benefits

  • Rich in allicin — a powerful sulfur compound released when garlic is crushed or chopped, with proven antimicrobial, antifungal, and antiviral properties
  • Contains manganese (23% DV per 28g serving), essential for bone health, metabolism, and antioxidant enzyme function
  • Excellent source of vitamin B6 (17% DV), supporting brain health, neurotransmitter production, and immune function
  • Provides selenium, a trace mineral important for thyroid function and DNA synthesis, with antioxidant properties
  • Studies show regular garlic consumption may lower blood pressure by 7-8% and reduce total cholesterol by 10-15%
  • Contains prebiotic fructans (inulin) that feed beneficial gut bacteria and support digestive health

💰 Why Grow Your Own?

A single head of organic garlic costs $1-3 at the grocery store, while seed garlic costs $10-15 per bulb but yields 6-10 new bulbs. One $12 seed garlic bulb can produce 8 bulbs worth $8-24 in organic garlic in a single season. Over time, saving your own seed garlic makes the cost essentially free — a 3m row produces enough garlic for both eating and replanting, saving $50-100 annually compared to buying organic garlic year-round.

Cured garlic bulbs with papery white and purple wrappers

Properly cured garlic with intact papery wrappers stores for months

Quick Recipes

Simple recipes using fresh Garlic

Classic Garlic Bread

Classic Garlic Bread

15 min

The ultimate comfort food side dish. Butter blended with fresh minced garlic and parsley spread onto crusty bread and toasted until golden and fragrant. Simple yet irresistible with pasta, soups, or salads.

Garlic Scape Pesto

10 min

A seasonal springtime treat that makes brilliant use of the curly flower stalks from hardneck garlic. Vibrant green with a mild garlic flavor, this pesto is perfect on pasta, pizza, grilled meat, or as a dip for crusty bread.

Roasted Garlic Spread

45 min

Whole garlic heads roasted until the cloves turn golden and butter-soft. The resulting spread is sweet, nutty, and mellow — a world away from raw garlic's bite. Perfect on crusty bread, mixed into mashed potatoes, or stirred into sauces.

Whole roasted garlic heads with golden caramelized cloves

Roasted garlic transforms into a sweet creamy spread

Yield & Spacing Calculator

See how many Garlic plants fit in your garden bed based on the recommended 15cm spacing.

64

Garlic plants in a 4×4 ft bed

8 columns × 8 rows at 15cm spacing

Popular Varieties

Some of the most popular garlic varieties for home gardeners, each with unique characteristics.

Music

A popular hardneck (Porcelain type) with large, easy-to-peel cloves and a robust, spicy raw flavor that mellows beautifully when roasted. Very cold-hardy. 4-5 large cloves per bulb. Stores 6-8 months.

German Extra Hardy

An extremely cold-tolerant hardneck Porcelain variety producing large bulbs with rich, strong flavor. Thrives in zones 3-6. 4-6 large cloves per bulb. Beautiful purple-streaked wrapper. 5-7 months storage.

Inchelium Red

A softneck Artichoke type named the best-tasting garlic in a Rodale Institute taste test. Mild, complex flavor. 10-20 cloves per bulb in multiple layers. Excellent storage of 9-12 months.

Chesnok Red

A hardneck Purple Stripe variety famous for being the best garlic for roasting, with a creamy, sweet, mellow flavor when baked. Beautiful purple-striped wrappers. 8-10 cloves per bulb. Stores 5-6 months.

California Early

A reliable softneck variety widely adapted to warm climates. Mild, classic garlic flavor with good productivity. 12-16 cloves per bulb. Excellent braiding variety with long storage of 10-12 months.

Garlic is a cornerstone of world cuisine, used in virtually every culinary tradition on Earth. Raw garlic delivers sharp pungency and heat from its allicin content — crush or mince it and let it sit for 10 minutes before cooking to maximize the enzymatic conversion that produces allicin and its health benefits. Sauteed garlic mellows into a sweet, nutty flavor that forms the aromatic base of countless dishes. Roasted garlic, baked whole at 200°C (400°F) for 35-40 minutes until soft and golden, transforms into a creamy, spreadable paste with a rich, caramelized sweetness that bears little resemblance to its raw form.

Fermented black garlic has become a gourmet sensation — the slow fermentation process converts sharp, pungent raw garlic into jet-black cloves with a soft, date-like texture and deep umami flavor with notes of balsamic vinegar, tamarind, and molasses. Garlic scapes, the curly flower stalks of hardneck varieties harvested in late spring, are a seasonal delicacy prized for pesto, stir-fries, grilling, and pickling. Green garlic — young, immature plants harvested in spring before bulbing — has a fresh, mild flavor perfect for using like scallions in salads, soups, and omelets.

Garlic pairs with virtually every savory dish and especially complements olive oil, butter, fresh herbs, tomatoes, lemon, chili, ginger, and all types of meat, fish, and legumes. It is essential in aioli, chimichurri, toum, aglio e olio, and thousands of other classic preparations. Nutritionally, garlic contains allicin — a powerful sulfur compound with significant antimicrobial, antifungal, and cardiovascular health benefits — along with manganese, vitamin B6, vitamin C, and selenium.

When should I plant Garlic?

Plant Garlic in October, November. It takes approximately 240 days to reach maturity, with harvest typically in June, July.

What are good companion plants for Garlic?

Garlic grows well alongside Tomato, Rose, Carrot, Spinach. Companion planting can improve growth, flavor, and natural pest control.

What hardiness zones can Garlic grow in?

Garlic thrives in USDA hardiness zones 3 through 9. With greenhouse protection, it may be grown in zones 1 through 10.

How much sun does Garlic need?

Garlic requires Full Sun (6-8h+). This means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

How far apart should I space Garlic?

Space Garlic plants 15cm (6 inches) apart for optimal growth and air circulation.

What pests and diseases affect Garlic?

Common issues include White Rot, Garlic Bloat Nematode, Leek Moth, Rust. Prevention through good garden practices like crop rotation, proper spacing, and companion planting is the best approach. See the detailed pests and diseases section above for symptoms, prevention, and treatment for each.

How do I store Garlic after harvest?

Properly cured garlic stores remarkably well when kept in the right conditions. Softneck varieties are the storage champions, keeping 9-12 months at 15-18°C (60-65°F) with good air circulation and 60-70% humidity. Hardneck types store for 4-6 months under the same conditions. Avoid storing garlic in...

What are the best Garlic varieties to grow?

Popular varieties include Music, German Extra Hardy, Inchelium Red, Chesnok Red, California Early. Each has unique characteristics suited to different growing conditions and culinary preferences. See the varieties section above for detailed descriptions.

What soil does Garlic need?

Garlic needs fertile, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0 and plenty of organic matter. Before planting in fall, amend beds with 5-8 cm of well-aged compost worked into the top 20 cm of soil. Add bone meal or rock phosphate for phosphorus, which supports the vigorous root development garlic needs...

When should I plant garlic?

Plant garlic in fall, typically 4-6 weeks before the ground freezes — this is usually mid-October to November in most temperate climates. The cloves need time to develop roots before winter but should not produce significant top growth that could be damaged by hard freezes. In mild-winter areas (zones 8-9), plant softneck varieties from late January through February. Spring planting is possible but usually produces smaller bulbs because garlic misses the critical cold vernalization period.

What is the difference between hardneck and softneck garlic?

Hardneck garlic produces a rigid central flower stalk (scape), fewer but larger cloves (4-8 per bulb), and stores for 4-6 months. It thrives in cold climates and offers more complex, robust flavors. Softneck garlic has a flexible stem (ideal for braiding), produces many smaller cloves (10-20 per bulb), stores for 9-12 months, and grows best in milder climates. For most home gardeners in cold climates, hardneck types like Music or German Extra Hardy are the best choice.

Why did my garlic not form cloves?

If your garlic produced a single round bulb (called a 'round') instead of individual cloves, it did not receive enough cold vernalization. Garlic needs 4-8 weeks of temperatures below 4°C (40°F) to trigger clove differentiation. This commonly happens when garlic is planted in spring instead of fall, or in very mild climates where winter temperatures stay above the vernalization threshold. Rounds are edible and can be replanted next fall for another chance.

Should I remove garlic scapes?

Yes — removing scapes from hardneck garlic when they form one full curl can increase bulb size by 10-30%. The scape is a flower stalk that diverts significant energy from bulb development. Snap or cut the scape just above the top leaf. The scapes themselves are a delicious culinary bonus — use them for pesto, stir-fries, grilling, or pickling. Softneck garlic does not produce scapes.

How do I know when garlic is ready to harvest?

Harvest garlic when 40-50% of the lower leaves have turned brown while the upper leaves remain green — typically in late June to July. Each green leaf corresponds to one intact wrapper layer on the bulb, so you want several green leaves remaining for good storage protection. Do not wait until all leaves are brown or the wrappers will have deteriorated. Test by digging one bulb — cloves should be plump and well-formed with intact wrappers.

Can I plant garlic from the grocery store?

While grocery store garlic will often sprout and grow, it is not recommended for several reasons. It may be treated with chemical sprout inhibitors that reduce vigor, could carry soil-borne diseases like white rot or bloat nematode, and is likely a variety selected for commercial production rather than home garden performance. Most importantly, it may not be suited to your climate and day length. Invest in certified disease-free seed garlic from a specialty grower for the best results — the difference in bulb size and quality is dramatic.

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Vladimir Kusnezow

Vladimir Kusnezow

Gardener and Software Developer

Zone 6b gardener. Growing vegetables and fruits in soil and hydroponics for 6 years. I built PlotMyGarden to plan my own gardens.