Vegetables · Leafy GreensClaytonia perfoliata

Winter Purslane

A hardy winter green that fills the gap when summer salad crops have finished, producing succulent, disc-shaped leaves through cold months.

Partial Sun (3-6h)Medium (even moisture)40 daysDifficultyBeginner Friendly
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Winter Purslane
Sow & harvest reminderstuned to your local frost dates
Sunlight
Partial Sun (3-6h)
Water Need
Medium (even moisture)
Frost Tolerance
Hardy (withstands frost)
Days to Maturity
40 days
Plant Spacing
15 cm
6 in
Hardiness Zones
Zone 3–9
USDA
Difficulty
Beginner Friendly
Expected Yield
150-250g
On this pageOverview
01 · Overview

Meet Winter Purslane

A hardy winter green that fills the gap when summer salad crops have finished, producing succulent, disc-shaped leaves through cold months. Plants tolerate temperatures down to 10 degrees Fahrenheit and stay productive under cloches or in cold frames all winter. The mild, slightly sweet flavor pairs well with winter citrus and nuts in seasonal salads. Self-seeds readily, often returning each fall without replanting.

40
days from seed to your first harvest. Time your whole season around it — sow, feed and pick dates all key off this one number.
02 · When to plant

When to plant Winter Purslane

Sow seeds from August to November when soil temperatures are below 12°C. Scatter seeds on the surface of moist soil or compost and press gently without covering, as they need light for germination. Germination takes 10-14 days in cool conditions. Seeds will not germinate reliably in warm soil, so do not attempt spring sowing. For a head start, sow in modules in a cold frame in August and transplant in September. Self-sown seedlings from established plants are often the easiest way to maintain a colony year after year.

The Season Plate

Your Winter Purslane Year

Composed for Zone 7 · typical seasons · frost passes Apr 2, returns Nov 1

Sow Winter Purslane Sep – Nov, pick Jan – Mar, Nov – Dec. Set your climate below and every date on this plate re-times itself.

Winter Purslane
Claytonia perfoliata
JFMAMJJASONDSep – NovSOWING SEASON
Sowing window
Sep – Nov
re-timed to your frost dates
Plant out
after Apr 2
once frost risk has passed
First picking
around Oct 25
≈ 40 days from sowing · 150-250g per plant
Composed for —Used once to set your season · only the zone is kept
Week-by-week Winter Purslane reminders watering, feeding and pruning, timed to your dates
In the app
Frost alerts for your garden a warning before a cold night costs you the crop
In the app
Succession sowing dates so the picking never gaps mid-season
In the app
Keep my dates — free for 7 daysWe nudge you as each window opens · cancel anytime
03 · Growing guide

How to grow Winter Purslane

Winter purslane, also known as miner's lettuce or claytonia, is a valuable cold-season salad crop native to western North America. Sow seeds from August to November directly into the garden or in containers, scattering thinly on the surface of moist compost and pressing lightly. Seeds need cool temperatures to germinate and may fail in warm soil above 12°C. Germination takes 10-14 days in cool conditions.

Plants form low rosettes of heart-shaped leaves followed by the distinctive disc-shaped leaves with delicate white flowers emerging from their centers. Winter purslane thrives in the cool, short days of autumn and winter when most other salad crops struggle. It tolerates heavy frost down to minus 12°C and continues growing slowly through the coldest months, making it invaluable for winter salads.

Grow in partial shade to full sun in well-drained soil. Plants are remarkably low-maintenance, requiring little attention once established. Water moderately and avoid waterlogging. Winter purslane self-seeds prolifically if flowers are allowed to set seed, and established colonies return reliably each autumn without any intervention. For the neatest plantings, sow in rows 15 cm apart and thin to 15 cm between plants.

Dense patch of winter purslane growing in a raised bed under a light frost
Winter purslane thrives in cold frames and open beds, producing greens when little else will grow
The Spacing Plate
4 × 8 ft · 15 cm

128 plants fit a 4 × 8 ft bed

Each Winter Purslane wants 15 cm of elbow room. The planner keeps that spacing for you — every plant, every bed.

Your bed —
128 plants, properly spaced — room to grow without crowding. Sowing opens in Sep where you garden.
Lay out my Winter Purslane bedAuto-spaced in the planner · free for 7 days
04 · Companions

Winter Purslane's best neighbours

Winter purslane grows well alongside other cool-season crops like radishes and carrots that share similar autumn planting schedules. It makes an excellent living ground cover under taller brassicas like kale and Brussels sprouts, helping to suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. The shallow root system does not compete significantly with deeper-rooted neighbors. Plant near spring bulbs for ground-level greenery while bulbs are dormant. Avoid planting in beds reserved for early spring sowings as self-seeded purslane can become a persistent volunteer.

The Society Table

Radish belongs beside it.

Old growers' knowledge, checked against Winter Purslane's real companion table below — test any plant you're growing.

Grows well in the company of · 2
Keep apart · 0
no recorded foes
Plant Winter Purslane with good neighboursThe planner flags conflicts before they're in the ground

Related growing guides

05 · Soil & feeding

Feed it well

Winter purslane is undemanding and grows in most soil types from sandy to clay, with a preference for slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5-7.0. Rich soil is not necessary and may produce overly lush growth susceptible to disease. Incorporate a light dressing of compost before sowing. No supplemental fertilizer is needed as plants are naturally adapted to lean conditions. Good drainage is essential to prevent waterlogging, especially during wet winter months. For containers, use standard multipurpose compost mixed with perlite for drainage.

Ideal Temperature

5°C – 15°C
0°C7°C13°C20°C

Hardiness Zone Compatibility

12345678910111213
Ideal (zones 3-9)Greenhouse / protection neededNot recommended
06 · Growth stages

From seed to harvest, stage by stage

0–14 days

Germination

Seeds germinate best in cool conditions between 5-12°C (41-54°F), which is unusual among garden crops. The tiny black seeds produce delicate cotyledons that are heart-shaped and slightly fleshy. Germination can be erratic in warm soil above 20°C (68°F), as the plant has a built-in dormancy mechanism triggered by heat.

14–35 days

Rosette Formation

Seedlings develop a low rosette of rounded, spoon-shaped leaves that are thick, succulent, and bright green. The leaves grow from a central point close to the ground, forming a compact cluster 10-15 cm across. Growth is steady even in temperatures near freezing.

35–55 days

Leaf Production

The rosette expands and leaf production accelerates. Leaves become larger and more succulent, with a distinctive rounded to triangular shape. The plant remains low-growing and compact during short winter days, concentrating energy in tender, harvestable foliage.

55–70 days

Stem Elongation

As days lengthen in late winter and early spring, plants begin sending up flowering stems from the center of the rosette. The stems feature distinctive clasping leaves — pairs of rounded leaves that completely encircle the stem, forming cup-like structures that catch rainwater. Plants can reach 30-40 cm tall.

70–90 days

Flowering and Seed Set

Tiny white star-shaped flowers open above the clasping stem leaves — each flower has five petals and is only about 5 mm across. The flowers are self-pollinating and quickly develop into small, round seed capsules. Each capsule contains 1-3 shiny black seeds that drop when ripe, readily self-sowing for next season.

Care Tip

Sow seeds very shallowly — barely press them into the soil surface, as they need light to germinate. Keep soil consistently moist with a fine mist. If germination is slow, try refrigerating seeds for a week before sowing to break dormancy.

Delicate winter purslane seedlings with tiny heart-shaped cotyledon leaves emerging from cool soil
Winter purslane seedlings emerge readily in cool weather, often self-sowing once established
07 · Monthly care

Caring for Winter Purslane month by month

What to do each month for your Winter Purslane

July

You are here

No active growth. Seeds are dormant in the soil. Use beds for summer crops. Begin planning your autumn and winter salad garden — order fresh seed if needed, as winter purslane seed viability declines after 2-3 years.

The Grower's Almanac

Know exactly what to do in your garden — every month

One email at the start of each month: what to sow, plant, and tackle right now — for your Winter Purslane and everything growing around it. Plus a short starter course that helps you dodge the classic mistakes.

  • What to do, right now
  • Matched to your season
  • Starter course included
08 · Harvest

Harvesting Winter Purslane

Begin harvesting winter purslane when plants have developed their distinctive disc-shaped leaves, typically 40-50 days from sowing. Pick individual leaves as needed or cut the entire rosette about 2 cm above ground level for a cut-and-come-again approach. Plants regrow readily from the stump. Harvest throughout winter and early spring until plants begin flowering in late spring, at which point the leaves become smaller and less succulent. Both the leaves and small white flowers are edible.

Freshly harvested winter purslane leaves and stems in a colander
A generous harvest of succulent winter purslane leaves — cut-and-come-again harvesting extends the season
The Margin Note
When did you plant?

assuming you sow when the window opens — set your real date

Started from
40days to first pick
PlantedJun 15, 2026 · Seed · ≈ 40 days to maturity
Picking windowJul 25, 2026Aug 24, 2026

Pick Winter Purslane promptly and the plant keeps producing.

Get my week-by-week planHarvest reminders arrive as your window opens

Storage & Preservation

Winter purslane is best eaten fresh as the succulent leaves wilt quickly after picking. Store unwashed in a sealed bag in the refrigerator for up to four days. Wash gently just before use. The delicate texture does not survive freezing or drying, so rely on fresh harvest throughout the growing season rather than preservation. As plants are available through winter, fresh supply is rarely an issue. Leaves can be briefly wilted into warm dishes at the last moment for a cooked application.

09 · Pests

What goes wrong — and the fix

Slugs and Snails

Pest

Irregular holes in the succulent leaves, especially during mild, wet autumn weather. Slime trails on and around plants.

Prevention Apply organic slug pellets when seedlings emerge. Clear garden debris that provides daytime hiding spots for slugs.
Fix: Hand-pick at dusk. Set beer traps near plants. Apply iron phosphate slug pellets around vulnerable seedlings.

Aphids

Pest

Small green or black insects clustering on flower stems and undersides of leaves. Distorted growth on flower stalks.

Prevention Inspect plants in mild spells during winter when aphids may become active. Encourage overwintering ladybirds nearby.
Fix: Spray with a jet of water on milder days. Remove badly affected flower stems. Apply insecticidal soap if necessary.

Damping Off

Disease

Seedlings collapse at soil level shortly after germination. May see white mold on the soil surface in wet conditions.

Prevention Sow at appropriate density. Use fresh, clean compost. Ensure good drainage and air circulation around seed trays.
Fix: Remove affected seedlings promptly. Improve ventilation. Allow soil surface to dry between waterings.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

The main challenge is getting seeds to germinate, as they require cool soil temperatures below 12°C. Sowing too early in warm autumn weather leads to poor germination. In mild winters, plants may bolt prematurely, producing flowers before a good harvest of leaves. Self-seeding can become invasive in suitable conditions, so remove plants before they set seed if you want to control spread. Slugs can damage young seedlings in wet autumn weather. In very wet sites, root rot may occur without adequate drainage.

Growing Tips

  1. Embrace the cold — winter purslane genuinely thrives in conditions that kill or stall most crops. Do not coddle it with heated greenhouses or warm indoor starts. Seeds germinate best at 5-12°C (41-54°F) and plants produce their finest leaves in near-freezing weather.
  2. Sow shallowly and let light in. Seeds need light to germinate, so press them gently onto the soil surface or cover with the thinnest possible dusting of fine vermiculite. Burying seeds even 1 cm deep dramatically reduces germination rates.
  3. Use cut-and-come-again harvesting to maximize yield. Snip outer leaves at the base of the rosette, leaving the central growing point intact. Each plant will regrow and provide 3-5 harvests over the season, multiplying your total yield significantly.
  4. A simple cold frame transforms winter purslane from a good crop to a great one. Even an unheated frame extends the harvest window by weeks, protects leaves from rain damage, and produces cleaner, more tender greens than open-ground plants.
  5. Let it self-sow and you will never need to buy seed again. Allow 3-4 plants to flower and set seed in spring — each plant drops over 1,000 seeds that germinate naturally the following autumn, creating a permanent, self-renewing salad patch.
  6. Avoid hot, sunny positions in mild climates. Winter purslane naturally grows in partial shade and struggles in full sun during warm spells. Under deciduous trees or on the north side of a wall provides ideal dappled light conditions in winter.
  7. Water sparingly but consistently. The succulent leaves store water efficiently, but the shallow root system dries out quickly. Aim for evenly moist soil without waterlogging — soggy conditions invite root rot and grey mould, the plant's worst enemies.
  8. Succession sow every 3-4 weeks from late August through October for a continuous supply of baby leaves. This staggers maturity so you always have young, tender rosettes ready to harvest rather than relying on a single aging planting.
10 · Varieties

Pick your Winter Purslane

Claytonia perfoliata

The standard species with distinctive disc-shaped upper leaves and mild, sweet flavor. Hardy and self-seeding.

ADvia AmazonShop seeds

Claytonia sibirica

Pink-flowered Siberian purslane, slightly larger plants with broader leaves and similar mild flavor.

ADvia AmazonShop seeds

Alba

A white-flowered selection of miner's lettuce with particularly succulent leaves and compact growth habit.

ADvia AmazonShop seeds
Why Grow Your Own?

Winter purslane seeds cost just $2-4 per packet (containing 500-1,000 seeds) and the plant self-sows reliably, providing free seed for future seasons. A single sowing can establish a self-renewing patch that produces fresh winter greens for years. With specialty winter salad mixes retailing for $4-8 per small bag at farmers markets and grocery stores, growing your own winter purslane saves $30-60 per winter on fresh greens alone — and delivers them at peak freshness, right outside your door, when store-bought greens are at their most expensive and least fresh.

11 · Recipes

Quick recipes

Winter Purslane and Beetroot Salad

Winter Purslane and Beetroot Salad

15 min

A vibrant winter salad combining the mild, slightly nutty crunch of fresh winter purslane with earthy roasted beetroot, tangy goat cheese, and toasted walnuts. A simple honey-mustard vinaigrette ties the flavors together into a satisfying cold-weather dish.

9 ingredients

Wilted Winter Purslane with Garlic and Lemon

10 min

A quick and simple side dish where winter purslane is lightly wilted in olive oil with garlic and finished with a bright squeeze of lemon. The succulent leaves hold their texture beautifully, creating a side that pairs perfectly with roasted meat or fish.

6 ingredients

Winter Purslane Pesto

10 min

A seasonal twist on classic pesto using winter purslane instead of basil — the mild, slightly mineral flavor of the leaves creates a delicate, bright green sauce perfect for pasta, bruschetta, or drizzling over roasted winter vegetables.

7 ingredients

Culinary Uses

Winter purslane has a mild, sweet, slightly succulent flavor that makes it an excellent winter salad green. The disc-shaped leaves create an interesting visual element in mixed salads. Pair with seasonal ingredients like winter citrus, pomegranate, walnuts, and blue cheese. The leaves also work well in sandwiches and wraps. Briefly wilt into soups or risottos as a finishing green. The small white flowers make a delicate edible garnish. Use as a substitute for lettuce in winter months.

12 · Nutrition

What's inside

Per 100g serving
16
Calories
Vitamin C22mg (24% DV)
Vitamin A1320 IU (26% DV)
Potassium390mg (11% DV)
Fiber1.5g (6% DV)

Health Benefits

  • Exceptionally high in vitamin C for a winter-available green, providing about 24% of the daily value per 100g — historically used to prevent and treat scurvy, this remains a powerful immune-boosting food during cold and flu season.
  • One of the richest plant sources of alpha-linolenic acid (an omega-3 fatty acid), which supports cardiovascular health, reduces inflammation, and may improve brain function and mood during dark winter months.
  • Rich in vitamin A and beta-carotene, supporting healthy vision, skin barrier function, and immune cell production — especially valuable during winter when sun exposure and dietary variety are limited.
  • Contains significant iron and calcium for a leafy green, supporting oxygen transport in the blood and bone density — important minerals that are often deficient in winter diets lacking fresh produce diversity.
  • High water content and gentle fiber support hydration and digestive regularity during winter, when people tend to drink less water and eat fewer fresh, water-rich foods.
  • The combination of antioxidants including vitamin C, beta-carotene, and various polyphenols helps combat oxidative stress and supports the body's natural defense systems during the physiologically demanding winter season.
13 · History

Where Winter Purslane comes from

Winter purslane (Claytonia perfoliata) is native to the western regions of North America, ranging from southern Alaska through British Columbia and the Pacific Northwest down through California and into Central America. It grows naturally in moist, shaded habitats — woodland edges, stream banks, rocky slopes, and disturbed ground — from sea level to mountain elevations above 2,500 meters. The plant was an important food source for numerous Indigenous peoples across its native range, including the Coast Salish, Ohlone, Miwok, and many other nations, who gathered the tender rosettes and succulent stems as one of the earliest spring greens.

The plant gained its most famous common name, 'miner's lettuce,' during the California Gold Rush of 1848-1855. Thousands of prospectors living in remote mining camps suffered from scurvy and other nutritional deficiencies due to diets consisting almost entirely of preserved meat, beans, and hardtack. They quickly learned from Indigenous knowledge that this abundant wild green could prevent and cure scurvy — its high vitamin C content made it a genuinely life-saving food. The miners ate it raw in enormous quantities, and the name stuck permanently.

Claytonia perfoliata was introduced to Europe in the late 18th century, where it was initially grown as a botanical curiosity. It quickly escaped cultivation and naturalized across the British Isles, France, and other parts of western Europe with mild, maritime winters. By the 19th century, European market gardeners recognized its value as a winter salad crop — it could produce fresh, tender greens during the coldest months when virtually nothing else would grow outdoors. Today it is widely cultivated across Europe, particularly in Britain, France, and the Netherlands, as a cold-season salad green. In its native North America, it remains primarily a wild-foraged plant, though specialty growers and home gardeners increasingly cultivate it for winter salad production.

14 · Did you know?

Winter Purslane: did you know?

Fascinating facts about Winter Purslane

Winter purslane (Claytonia perfoliata) is native to western North America, from Alaska to Central America — it was a staple food of many Indigenous peoples and was eaten raw, steamed, or boiled as one of the first fresh greens available after long winters.

15 · FAQ

Winter Purslane questions, answered

When should I plant Winter Purslane?
Plant Winter Purslane in September, October, November. It takes approximately 40 days to reach maturity, with harvest typically in November, December, January, February, March.
What are good companion plants for Winter Purslane?
Winter Purslane grows well alongside Radish, Carrot. Companion planting can improve growth, flavor, and natural pest control.
What hardiness zones can Winter Purslane grow in?
Winter Purslane thrives in USDA hardiness zones 3 through 9. With greenhouse protection, it may be grown in zones 1 through 10.
How much sun does Winter Purslane need?
Winter Purslane requires Partial Sun (3-6h). This means 3-6 hours of sunlight, ideally morning sun with afternoon shade.
How far apart should I space Winter Purslane?
Space Winter Purslane plants 15cm (6 inches) apart for optimal growth and air circulation.
What pests and diseases affect Winter Purslane?
Common issues include Slugs and Snails, Aphids, Damping Off. Prevention through good garden practices like crop rotation, proper spacing, and companion planting is the best approach. See the detailed pests and diseases section above for symptoms, prevention, and treatment for each.
How do I store Winter Purslane after harvest?
Winter purslane is best eaten fresh as the succulent leaves wilt quickly after picking. Store unwashed in a sealed bag in the refrigerator for up to four days. Wash gently just before use. The delicate texture does not survive freezing or drying, so rely on fresh harvest throughout the growing seaso...
What are the best Winter Purslane varieties to grow?
Popular varieties include Claytonia perfoliata, Claytonia sibirica, Alba. Each has unique characteristics suited to different growing conditions and culinary preferences. See the varieties section above for detailed descriptions.
What soil does Winter Purslane need?
Winter purslane is undemanding and grows in most soil types from sandy to clay, with a preference for slightly acidic to neutral pH of 5.5-7.0. Rich soil is not necessary and may produce overly lush growth susceptible to disease. Incorporate a light dressing of compost before sowing. No supplemental...
Why won't my winter purslane seeds germinate?
The most likely cause is warm soil temperatures. Winter purslane seeds have a built-in dormancy that prevents germination above 20°C (68°F) — this is a survival mechanism ensuring seeds only sprout when cool weather arrives. Wait until soil cools in autumn, or refrigerate seeds for 1-2 weeks before sowing in marginal conditions. Seeds also need light to germinate, so never bury them — press them onto the soil surface and keep them moist with a fine mist.
Is winter purslane the same as regular purslane?
No, they are completely different plants despite sharing a common name. Winter purslane (Claytonia perfoliata) belongs to the family Montiaceae and is a cool-season crop from western North America. Regular purslane (Portulaca oleracea) belongs to the Portulacaceae family and is a warm-season, heat-loving plant from the Old World. Both have succulent, fleshy leaves and mild flavor, which is why they share the name, but they thrive in opposite seasons and are not closely related botanically.
Can I grow winter purslane indoors?
It is possible but not ideal. Winter purslane prefers outdoor cold and natural light cycles. If growing indoors, place it in the coolest room (ideally below 15°C / 59°F), provide at least 4-5 hours of direct light from a south-facing window, and avoid warm rooms with central heating. A cool, bright porch or unheated conservatory works well. Container-grown plants on a balcony or in a cold frame generally produce better results than indoor cultivation.
My winter purslane is bolting — what can I do?
Bolting is triggered by lengthening days and rising temperatures in late winter and spring — it is a natural part of the plant's life cycle and cannot be fully prevented. To delay bolting, harvest frequently using cut-and-come-again methods, grow in partial shade, and maintain consistent moisture. Once the flowering stem begins to elongate, the stem tips and clasping leaves are still edible and tender. Allow a few plants to bolt fully for seed production while continuing to harvest younger plants.
Will winter purslane survive a hard freeze?
Winter purslane is remarkably cold-hardy for a salad green. Established plants tolerate temperatures down to about -10°C (14°F) with only minor leaf damage, especially if protected by a cold frame, cloche, or fleece. Young seedlings are less hardy and benefit from protection below -5°C (23°F). After a hard freeze, damaged outer leaves may look wilted but the central growing point usually survives and regrows. The plant's succulent leaves have some natural antifreeze properties that prevent cell rupture in moderate frost.
How do I harvest winter purslane without killing the plant?
Use the cut-and-come-again method: snip or pinch individual outer leaves from the rosette, or cut a handful of outer leaves about 2 cm above the soil line, always leaving the central growing point and at least 4-5 inner leaves intact. The plant will regrow from the center within 2-3 weeks. Avoid pulling entire plants or cutting the central growing point, as this kills the plant. You can harvest this way 3-5 times per plant over the season for maximum total yield.
Why gardeners switch

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Everything that makes Winter Purslane fiddly — the timing, the spacing, the companions, the harvest window — is exactly what PlotMyGarden handles for you, for every plant in your garden.

A plan that knows your weather

Set your location once. Get sow, feed and harvest dates built around your real last-frost date and live forecast — no more guessing from a generic seed packet.

From the “When to plant” section

Drag-and-drop bed planner

Design beds on a grid. Every plant snaps to its proper spacing, and you can see your whole season laid out before you spend a cent on seed.

From the “Growing guide” section

Companion conflicts, caught early

200+ good-and-bad pairings checked live as you plant — so a season-wrecking mistake never makes it into the ground.

From the “Companions” section

Reminders you'll actually act on

“Water the beans.” “Pick today before it turns.” Timely, specific, and tied to the plants you're really growing.

From the “Harvest” section

Succession, scheduled

Want a harvest for six weeks, not six days? It spaces your sowings automatically and reminds you when each new block is due.

From the “When to plant” section

A record that gets smarter

Every harvest you log teaches it your garden. Next year's plan starts from what actually worked in your soil, not a textbook's.

From the “Overview” section
Companion crops

Plant these alongside Winter Purslane

Keep growing

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