Shasta Daisy

A classic white daisy perennial with sunny yellow centers, providing cheerful summer blooms in borders and meadow gardens. Shasta daisies are easy to grow, reliable bloomers that benefit from deadheading and division every few years. They make excellent, long-lasting cut flowers and combine well with nearly every other garden perennial.

Sow Shasta daisy seeds indoors 8-10 weeks before the last frost, or directly outdoors in autumn. Press seeds into the surface of moist compost without covering, as light aids germination. Expect seedlings in 14-21 days at 18-22°C. Named cultivars must be propagated by division in spring for identical plants. Division is simple—lift clumps, discard the woody center, and replant vigorous outer sections with healthy roots.

The Season Plate

Your Shasta Daisy Year

Composed for Zone 7 · typical seasons · frost passes Apr 2, returns Nov 1

Sow Shasta Daisy Mar – Apr, Sep, pick Jun – Aug. Set your climate below and every date on this plate re-times itself.

Sowing window

Mar – Apr, Sep

re-timed to your frost dates

Plant out

after Apr 2

once frost risk has passed

First picking

around Mar 15

≈ 365 days from sowing · 2-3 years per plant

Composed for —ColdTemperateMildWarmUse my locationUsed once to set your season · only the zone is kept

Week-by-week Shasta Daisy reminders watering, feeding and pruning, timed to your dates

In the app

Frost alerts for your garden a warning before a cold night costs you the crop

In the app

Succession sowing dates so the picking never gaps mid-season

In the app

Keep my dates — free for 7 daysWe nudge you as each window opens · cancel anytime

Shasta daisies are the definitive summer daisy—large, clean white petals radiating from a golden-yellow center on strong stems above dark green foliage. Originally bred by Luther Burbank by crossing European and Japanese species, these robust perennials grow 60-90cm tall and bloom prolifically from June through August. They are among the easiest and most rewarding perennials for beginners.

Plant in full sun in average, well-drained soil. Shasta daisies are adaptable and unfussy, performing well in most garden conditions provided drainage is adequate—they will rot in waterlogged winter soil. Space 45cm apart and water regularly during the first season to establish a deep root system.

Deadhead spent flowers consistently to prolong the blooming season and prevent excessive self-seeding. After the main flush, cut flower stems back to the basal foliage. In autumn, leave the rosette of evergreen basal leaves intact over winter. Divide clumps every 2-3 years in spring to maintain vigor—the center of old clumps dies out over time, leaving a ring of growth that needs refreshing.

Shasta daisies combine beautifully with virtually every other summer perennial. Classic partners include coneflowers, daylilies, black-eyed Susans, lavender, and salvia. The clean white and yellow color scheme acts as a neutral bridge between bolder hues. Plant in cottage gardens with roses, phlox, and delphinium for a quintessential English border look. The flowers attract hover flies and other beneficial insects that help control aphids on neighboring plants.

The Society Table

Coneflower belongs beside it.

Old growers' knowledge, checked against Shasta Daisy's real companion table below — test any plant you're growing.

Grows well in the company of · 3

ConeflowerBlack-eyed SusanDaylily

Keep apart · 0

no recorded foes

Plant Shasta Daisy with good neighboursThe planner flags conflicts before they're in the ground

Shasta daisies grow in average to fertile, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0-8.0. They are not fussy about soil type provided drainage is good—winter waterlogging is the main killer. Incorporate compost before planting and top-dress with compost in spring. Feed with a balanced slow-release fertilizer in early spring. Avoid over-fertilizing, which produces lush foliage at the expense of flowers and creates floppy stems.

Ideal Temperature

Hardiness Zone Compatibility

Shasta daisies are outstanding cut flowers. Cut stems when flowers are nearly fully open, in the morning after dew has dried. Strip lower leaves that would sit below the waterline. The flowers last an impressive 7-14 days in a vase with clean water changed every 2-3 days. For the longest display, add a few drops of bleach and a pinch of sugar to the vase water. Cut regularly to encourage continued bloom in the garden.

Storage & Preservation

Shasta daisy flowers can be dried using silica gel for three-dimensional preservation—the white petals and yellow centers maintain their color well. Press individual flowers between heavy books for craft projects. Seeds can be saved from non-hybrid varieties by collecting dry seed heads in autumn. The flowers do not air-dry successfully due to the fleshy petals, but silica gel drying produces excellent results within 3-5 days.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Winter rot in wet, heavy soil is the leading cause of Shasta daisy loss. Improve drainage before planting and avoid heavy winter mulch against the crown. Floppy stems result from too much shade, rich soil, or old overcrowded clumps—divide every 2-3 years and grow in full sun for the sturdiest plants. Failure to deadhead results in excessive self-seeding and shortened bloom season. Short-lived in hot, humid climates; treat as a biennial in the Deep South.

Growing Tips

1. Plant shasta daisies in full sun for the most abundant flowering. They tolerate light afternoon shade in hot climates but produce significantly fewer blooms in less than 6 hours of direct sunlight per day.
2. Ensure excellent soil drainage, especially in winter. Shasta daisies are far more likely to die from wet, waterlogged winter soil causing crown rot than from cold temperatures. Amend heavy clay soil with coarse sand or fine gravel before planting.
3. Deadhead spent blooms consistently throughout the flowering season by cutting stems back to a lateral bud or the basal foliage. This single practice can extend the blooming period from 4 weeks to 10 weeks or more.
4. Divide clumps every 2 to 3 years in early spring or early fall. Older clumps tend to die out in the center and produce fewer, smaller flowers. Replant only the vigorous outer portions and discard the woody center.
5. Pinch or cut back stems by one-third in late May to early June to produce shorter, sturdier plants that are less likely to flop. This delays flowering by about 2 weeks but eliminates the need for staking in most cases.
6. Apply a 2 to 3 cm layer of compost as a top-dressing in early spring when new growth appears. Avoid heavy nitrogen fertilizers, which promote lush foliage at the expense of flowers and can cause weak, floppy stems.
7. Water deeply once per week during the growing season rather than frequent shallow watering. Deep watering encourages roots to grow downward, producing more drought-tolerant and self-sufficient plants over time.
8. Choose cultivars appropriate for your garden conditions. Compact varieties like 'Snow Lady' (30 cm) are ideal for containers and border fronts, while tall varieties like 'Alaska' (90 cm) work best at the back of perennial borders.
9. Remove and destroy any foliage that shows signs of leaf spot disease (brown or black circular spots) to prevent the fungal spores from spreading. Good air circulation between plants is the best preventive measure.
10. Leave a few seed heads on plants at the end of the season if you want self-sown seedlings the following spring. Be aware that seedlings from hybrid cultivars may not come true to the parent and often revert to simple single-flowered forms.