Crape Myrtle

A multi-season ornamental tree featuring crinkled crepe-paper flowers in summer, colorful fall foliage, and attractive peeling bark for winter interest. Crape myrtles bloom on new wood, so prune in late winter to encourage vigorous flowering shoots, but avoid the common mistake of severe topping cuts. They thrive in heat and tolerate drought once established, making them ideal for hot, sunny locations. Choose mildew-resistant cultivars and provide full sun with good air circulation to prevent powdery mildew.

Crape myrtle seeds form inside small round capsules that ripen in fall and persist through winter. Collect seed capsules when they turn brown and dry, shaking out the tiny seeds. Seeds require no stratification and germinate readily at 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Sow on the surface of moist seed-starting mix and press gently without covering, as seeds need light to germinate. Keep consistently moist under fluorescent lights. Germination occurs in 2 to 3 weeks. Seedlings grow rapidly and may bloom in the second year from seed, though flower color and form will vary from the parent plant. Named cultivars must be propagated from softwood cuttings taken in early summer.

Crape myrtle is the quintessential summer-flowering tree for warm climates, offering months of colorful blooms from midsummer through fall when few other trees are in flower. Choose a site with full sun for maximum flowering, as shade significantly reduces bloom production and encourages powdery mildew. Crape myrtles thrive in heat and tolerate drought once established, making them ideal for hot, dry locations. Plant in well-drained soil with a pH of 5.5 to 7.5.

Plant container-grown specimens in spring or fall. Space 10 to 20 feet apart depending on mature size of the cultivar. Water deeply at planting and weekly during the first growing season. Once established, crape myrtles need supplemental water only during extended drought periods.

Pruning is the most misunderstood aspect of crape myrtle care. The common practice of severe topping, often called crape murder, produces ugly knobby stubs and weakens the tree over time. Instead, prune in late winter by removing crossing branches, suckers from the base, and interior twigs smaller than a pencil. Selectively thin to enhance the natural vase shape and reveal the beautiful mottled exfoliating bark, which is one of the tree's finest ornamental features.

Crape myrtle's summer bloom period fills the gap between spring-flowering trees and fall color, making it a valuable companion in mixed borders. Underplant with sun-loving perennials like daylilies, coneflowers, and black-eyed Susans that bloom simultaneously. Ornamental grasses provide textural contrast and movement. Low-growing evergreen groundcovers like liriope and mondo grass fill in beneath the canopy year-round. Spring-flowering bulbs and perennials provide early-season interest before the crape myrtle leafs out.

Crape myrtle thrives in well-drained soil and tolerates a wide pH range from 5.5 to 7.5. It grows well in sandy, loamy, or clay soils as long as drainage is adequate. Avoid chronically wet sites where root rot becomes a problem. Fertilize in early spring with a balanced slow-release fertilizer. Avoid excessive nitrogen that promotes vegetative growth at the expense of flowering. Mulch with 2 to 3 inches of organic matter to conserve moisture and suppress weeds, but keep mulch away from the trunk base.

Ideal Temperature

Hardiness Zone Compatibility

Crape myrtle is grown purely as an ornamental and is not harvested for food. The flower panicles are sometimes cut for fresh or dried flower arrangements. Cut flower clusters when about three-quarters of the florets have opened. The exfoliating bark that peels in patches to reveal smooth, colorful underbark in shades of cinnamon, cream, gray, and pink is one of the most attractive bark displays of any landscape tree.

Storage & Preservation

Fresh-cut crape myrtle flower panicles last 5 to 7 days in water. For dried arrangements, cut flower clusters at peak bloom and hang upside down in a warm, dark, well-ventilated area for 2 to 3 weeks. Dried flowers retain good color and form for several months. The attractive seed heads can also be dried for winter arrangements. Bark fragments that peel naturally from the trunk can be collected for craft projects.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Crape murder, the severe topping of crape myrtles each winter, is the most common landscape mistake. This practice destroys the natural form, produces weak, whip-like growth, and creates permanent ugly knobs. Powdery mildew on susceptible cultivars is extremely common; always select resistant varieties. Crape myrtle bark scale is an invasive pest spreading across the South that can heavily coat trunks and branches. Aphid infestations produce sticky honeydew and sooty mold. Failure to bloom usually indicates too much shade, excessive nitrogen, or insufficient heat. Root sprouts require regular removal.

Growing Tips

1. Plant in full sun with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily; insufficient light drastically reduces flowering and promotes leggy, weak growth.
2. Space trees at least 3 to 5 meters apart to ensure adequate air circulation, which is the single most effective cultural practice for preventing powdery mildew.
3. Avoid heavy clay soils that retain standing water; crape myrtles prefer well-drained loamy or sandy loam soils with a pH between 5.5 and 7.5.
4. Water deeply but infrequently once established — approximately 2.5 cm per week during the growing season. Overwatering encourages root rot and shallow root development.
5. Never top or 'crape murder' your tree by cutting main trunks to stubs; instead, prune selectively by removing suckers, crossing branches, and interior twiggy growth in late winter.
6. Select cultivars bred for disease resistance, such as the National Arboretum hybrids (Natchez, Tuscarora, Muskogee, Sioux), to avoid chronic powdery mildew issues.
7. Apply a 7-10 cm layer of organic mulch (pine bark, wood chips) around the base but keep it 10-15 cm away from the trunk to prevent bark rot and rodent damage.
8. Deadhead spent flower panicles throughout summer to stimulate additional bloom cycles; this simple practice can extend the flowering season by 4 to 6 weeks.
9. In USDA Zone 6 and colder pockets of Zone 7, plant on the south or west side of a building for winter wind protection and additional radiant heat.
10. Monitor for crape myrtle bark scale (Acanthococcus lagerstroemiae), a relatively new invasive pest; treat early infestations with systemic imidacloprid or horticultural oil applications in late spring.