
Blood Orange
Citrus sinensis (blood)
At a Glance
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A striking citrus variety with deep crimson flesh caused by anthocyanin pigments that develop during cool nights. Blood oranges have a distinctive raspberry-citrus flavor unlike any other orange variety. The Moro, Tarocco, and Sanguinello cultivars each offer different levels of color intensity and sweetness.
Planting & Harvest Calendar
Growth Stages
From Seed to Harvest

Transplant Establishment
Days 0–60
Grafted blood orange trees (the only practical way to grow them for reliable fruit) focus almost entirely on root establishment during the first 6–8 weeks after planting. Above-ground growth may be minimal. The graft union should be kept above the soil line at all times.
💡 Care Tip
Water gently and consistently but avoid waterlogging. Stake the young tree if winds are likely. Keep the graft union visible above soil. Protect from frost with horticultural fleece if temperatures approach 0°C.

Blood orange blossoms are intensely fragrant and a magnet for pollinators in late winter and early spring
Monthly Care Calendar
What to do each month for your Blood Orange
May
You are hereNatural fruitlet drop ('June drop') approaching — do not be alarmed by the loss of small fruitlets. Maintain consistent irrigation as weather warms. Apply mulch of wood chips or straw around the root zone. Continue feeding every 6–8 weeks through the growing season.
Did You Know?
Fascinating facts about Blood Orange
The vivid red flesh of blood oranges is caused by anthocyanins — powerful antioxidant pigments normally associated with berries like blueberries and blackberries. These pigments are almost unique among citrus fruits.
Blood oranges thrive in USDA zones 9 through 11, requiring full sun and well-drained soil with a slightly acidic pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Plant in spring after all frost danger has passed, spacing trees about 10 feet apart. Water deeply once or twice per week during the first two years to establish a strong root system, then reduce to weekly watering once mature.
The signature crimson flesh develops best when nighttime temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit during the ripening period, which is why Mediterranean climates produce the most intensely colored fruit. In warmer subtropical areas, coloration may be less dramatic. Fertilize three times per year with a citrus-specific fertilizer in late winter, late spring, and early fall.
Prune lightly after harvest to maintain an open canopy that allows sunlight to penetrate the interior. Remove water sprouts and any dead or crossing branches. Protect trees from frost with covers or outdoor-rated holiday lights that generate gentle heat. Container-grown blood oranges should be brought indoors when temperatures drop below 30 degrees Fahrenheit.
The blood orange occupies a singular place in the history of citrus. Unlike the sweet orange (Citrus sinensis), which was developed over millennia of deliberate cultivation across China and Southeast Asia, the blood orange appears to have arisen as a spontaneous mutation — its origins most strongly associated with the Mediterranean island of Sicily, where it has been cultivated for several centuries.
The earliest reliable written references to blood oranges appear in Sicilian agricultural records from the early 17th century, though the fruit was likely present considerably earlier as an unremarked curiosity. The red coloring was initially regarded with suspicion by growers and consumers, who associated it with rotting or diseased fruit. It took time for the distinctive flavor — sweeter and more complex than standard sweet oranges, with a characteristic undertone of raspberry or dark berry — to win appreciation.
By the 18th and 19th centuries, blood oranges had become firmly established across Sicily and the wider Mediterranean, particularly in Spain and Malta. The volcanic basalt soils of Mount Etna's slopes, with their particular mineral composition and the sharp diurnal temperature swings of a Sicilian winter, proved almost uniquely suited to producing blood oranges of exceptional quality. The three principal Sicilian varieties — Moro, Tarocco, and Sanguinello — became internationally recognized, and in 1998 they were granted Protected Geographical Indication status under EU law, a legal recognition of the link between origin and quality more commonly associated with wine and cheese.
The key to blood orange color — and the reason they remain so strongly associated with the Mediterranean — lies in the anthocyanin pigments responsible for the red flesh. These pigments, which are essentially absent in all other orange varieties, require cool temperatures (consistently below 12°C at night) during the fruit's ripening phase to accumulate to visible levels. In permanently warm or tropical climates, blood oranges simply do not develop their characteristic color or the berry-tinged flavor that accompanies it. This temperature dependency makes blood oranges one of the few citrus fruits that genuinely cannot be fully replicated in a warm greenhouse or tropical garden setting.
Today, blood oranges are grown commercially in Sicily, Spain, southern France, California, Florida, South Africa, and Australia — wherever winter nights are reliably cool. They remain a seasonal luxury in many markets: arriving in shops from December and disappearing by March, their brief season intensifying their desirability. For the home gardener in a climate with cool winters, growing a blood orange tree offers the extraordinary reward of watching ordinary-looking green fruit transform, as autumn deepens, into some of the most visually stunning and complex-flavored citrus in existence.

A productive blood orange tree can hold fruit for weeks after ripening — harvest gradually as needed
Blood oranges can be grown from seed, though seedlings will not produce true-to-type fruit and may take seven to fifteen years to bear. For reliable results, purchase grafted nursery trees on cold-hardy rootstocks such as Trifoliata or Carrizo citrange. Grafted trees typically begin bearing fruit within three to four years. If growing from seed for rootstock or curiosity, soak seeds overnight, plant one inch deep in moist potting mix, and keep warm at 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Seedlings emerge in two to four weeks and should be grown in bright light until large enough to transplant.
Blood oranges prefer well-drained sandy loam or loamy soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Amend heavy clay soils with generous amounts of compost and coarse sand to improve drainage. Apply a balanced citrus fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or a specialized citrus blend three times per year: in February before spring growth, in May after fruit set, and in September before fall. Supplement with chelated iron and manganese if leaves show interveinal yellowing. Add two to three inches of organic mulch around the drip line, keeping it six inches away from the trunk.
Check Your Zone
See if Blood Orange is suitable for your location.
8°C – 33°C
46°F – 91°F
Blood oranges share the frost sensitivity of all sweet oranges and prefer the same broad growing range of 15°C–30°C. However, they have a critical additional requirement: cool winters with nighttime temperatures regularly below 12°C are needed to trigger the production of anthocyanin pigments that create the characteristic red flesh and complex flavor. Mature trees can tolerate brief dips to -3°C but prolonged freezing temperatures will damage wood and kill young trees. In climates that are too warm in winter (consistently above 15°C at night), blood oranges may produce good fruit in terms of sweetness and juice but will lack the red color and berry flavor notes. Container-grown trees should be moved to a cool frost-free space — ideally 5–10°C — over winter to provide both frost protection and the cold stimulus needed for color development.
Common issues affecting Blood Orange and how to prevent and treat them organically.
Inadequate cold nights during ripening result in poorly pigmented flesh, which is the most common disappointment for growers outside Mediterranean climates. Alternate bearing, where trees produce heavily one year and lightly the next, can be managed by thinning fruit in heavy-crop years. Splitting occurs when heavy rain follows drought, so maintain consistent watering. Sunburn on exposed fruit can be prevented by maintaining adequate canopy cover. Iron chlorosis shows as yellow leaves with green veins and is corrected with chelated iron applications.
Plant nitrogen-fixing cover crops like crimson clover or fava beans beneath blood orange trees to enrich the soil naturally. Aromatic herbs such as basil, rosemary, and thyme planted nearby can help deter certain insect pests while attracting beneficial pollinators. Nasturtiums serve as excellent trap crops, drawing aphids away from citrus foliage. Comfrey planted at the drip line acts as a dynamic nutrient accumulator, bringing minerals from deep in the soil to the surface when used as mulch. Avoid planting bermudagrass or St. Augustine grass near citrus, as they compete aggressively for water and nutrients.
- 1Always purchase a grafted blood orange tree from a reputable specialist citrus nursery. The three named Sicilian varieties — Moro (earliest and most deeply colored), Tarocco (finest flavor, latest to ripen), and Sanguinello (mid-season, excellent juice) — each have distinct characteristics. 'Moro' is the best choice for cooler climates as it develops deep color earliest in the season.
- 2Cool winter nights are not just desirable but essential for blood oranges — without regular temperatures below 12°C during the autumn and winter ripening period, the fruit will be orange-fleshed like any standard sweet orange. Do not try to protect the tree from mild winter cold at the expense of color development; the plant can handle temperatures down to about -2°C without significant damage.
- 3Choose the sunniest, most sheltered position available — a south-facing wall or fence is ideal in cooler climates. Reflected heat from masonry extends the growing season and helps the tree build the energy reserves needed for a good fruit crop.
- 4Drainage is non-negotiable. Blood orange trees are members of the citrus family and will decline rapidly in waterlogged soil. If your garden has heavy clay, plant on a raised mound and incorporate generous amounts of grit and compost. In containers, always use a specialist citrus compost and ensure drainage holes are clear.
- 5Feed regularly with a dedicated citrus fertilizer containing not just nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium but also the trace elements magnesium, iron, manganese, and zinc. Interveinal yellowing of leaves (yellow between veins while veins stay green) is a classic sign of iron or manganese deficiency caused by soil that is too alkaline — treat with chelated iron and lower soil pH with sulfur.
- 6In autumn, resist the temptation to cover the tree or bring container trees indoors the moment temperatures drop. The cool nights from October onward are exactly what triggers anthocyanin production and the color transformation that defines a true blood orange. Move container trees to frost protection only when temperatures consistently threaten to drop below -2°C.
- 7Mulch the root zone generously with wood chips or straw, keeping mulch pulled back 10–15 cm from the trunk to prevent collar rot. A deep mulch layer conserves soil moisture during summer, moderates soil temperature, suppresses weeds, and slowly adds organic matter to the soil as it breaks down.
- 8Pruning should be minimal compared to deciduous fruit trees. Remove any shoots arising below the graft union immediately — these are rootstock growth and will not produce blood oranges. Light annual thinning of crossing branches and dense interior growth improves air circulation. Major structural pruning is best done in late winter after the harvest but before new growth begins.
- 9For container culture, repot into a slightly larger pot every 2–3 years in spring using fresh citrus or loam-based compost. Feed fortnightly with a liquid citrus fertilizer during the growing season from March to September. Bring containers to a cool, bright frost-free space for winter — an unheated greenhouse or cool conservatory at 5–10°C is ideal, providing both frost protection and the cold stimulus required for color development.
- 10The most reliable pest issues on blood oranges are scale insects, aphids, and citrus leafminer. An annual dormant oil spray applied in late winter before new growth emerges smothers overwintering scale and is highly effective as both a preventive and curative treatment. Ants climbing the trunk protect scale insects from natural predators — use a sticky barrier around the trunk or a physical collar to prevent ant access.
Blood oranges ripen from January through April, depending on the cultivar. Moro ripens earliest with the deepest color, while Tarocco ripens later with superior sweetness. Taste-test fruit before harvesting the entire crop, as external color does not reliably indicate internal pigmentation. Clip fruit from the tree with pruning shears, leaving a short stem stub to prevent rind tearing. Fruit left on the tree past peak ripeness will become dry and pithy. Harvest in the morning when fruit is cool for best storage quality.
Store blood oranges at room temperature for up to one week or refrigerate for three to four weeks. Their striking color makes them ideal for fresh eating and dramatic garnishes. Juice freezes well for up to six months and retains its ruby color. Blood orange marmalade showcases both the flavor and pigment beautifully. Dehydrated blood orange slices make attractive cocktail garnishes and snacks. The zest can be dried and stored in airtight containers for several months.
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Nutritional Info
Per 100g serving
60
Calories
Health Benefits
- Exceptional source of vitamin C — nearly 100% of the adult daily requirement in a single medium fruit
- Uniquely rich in anthocyanins — powerful antioxidant pigments normally associated with berries, blueberries, and red cabbage, and almost entirely absent in other citrus fruits
- Anthocyanins are associated in research with reduced inflammation, improved cardiovascular function, and neuroprotective effects
- Good source of folate, supporting healthy cell division and particularly important during early pregnancy
- Provides hesperidin and other citrus flavonoids linked to improved blood vessel elasticity and reduced cardiovascular disease risk
- Naturally low in calories with high water and fiber content — supports healthy weight management and digestive regularity
- Contains thiamine (vitamin B1) and small amounts of calcium and magnesium contributing to overall micronutrient intake
💰 Why Grow Your Own?
Blood oranges command a significant premium in supermarkets and specialty food stores — premium blood oranges regularly sell for $2–$4 per fruit, and a carton of blood orange juice costs several times more than standard orange juice. A mature blood orange tree in a suitable climate can produce 80–250 fruits per season. At $2 per fruit, a single productive tree yields $160–$500 worth of premium fruit annually. Over a 15–20 year productive lifespan, the investment in a well-chosen grafted tree and basic ongoing care can return thousands of dollars in equivalent retail value, not counting the incomparable advantage of harvesting at peak ripeness — the point at which blood orange color and flavor are at their absolute maximum, something no commercial supply chain can reliably deliver.
Quick Recipes
Simple recipes using fresh Blood Orange

Blood Orange Juice Spritz
5 minutesSqueeze blood oranges on a citrus press and pour the vivid crimson juice immediately over ice. Top with chilled sparkling water in a ratio of roughly two parts juice to one part water. Add a thin blood orange wheel to the glass. The color is spectacular and the flavor — sweet, sharp, and faintly of raspberry — is incomparable. For an adult version, replace sparkling water with a dry Prosecco or Campari soda.

Blood Orange, Burrata and Pistachio Salad
12 minutesPeel blood oranges removing all pith and slice into rounds. Arrange on a wide plate with torn burrata, scattered whole pistachios, and a few fronds of fresh fennel. Drizzle generously with good extra-virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. Scatter flaky sea salt and cracked black pepper. The combination of the creamy burrata, bitter pistachios, and intensely flavored blood orange is visually stunning and deeply satisfying.

Blood Orange Curd
25 minutesA stunning deep-rose curd made with blood orange juice and zest. In a small heavy saucepan, whisk together the juice and zest of 3 blood oranges, 100g caster sugar, 3 whole eggs, and 80g cold cubed butter. Cook over low-medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon (about 10–12 minutes). Do not let it boil. Pour into sterilized jars and refrigerate. Use on toast, scones, stirred into yogurt, or as a cake filling. The color — a vivid pink-coral — is extraordinary.

Fresh blood orange juice has a distinctive berry-citrus flavor and a stunning ruby color that no store-bought carton can replicate
Yield & Spacing Calculator
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Popular Varieties
Some of the most popular blood orange varieties for home gardeners, each with unique characteristics.
Moro
The most intensely pigmented blood orange with deep burgundy flesh and a strong berry-like flavor. Earliest to ripen and most reliable coloring.
Tarocco
Considered the sweetest blood orange, originating from Italy. Lighter red coloring but exceptional juice quality and flavor complexity.
Sanguinello
A late-season Spanish cultivar with medium-red flesh, few seeds, and a tender, juicy texture. Ripens in February through April.
Sanguine de Mussolini
A rare heirloom variety with moderate pigmentation and a balanced sweet-tart flavor, prized by collectors.
Blood oranges add dramatic color to salads, especially paired with fennel, arugula, and goat cheese. The juice makes stunning cocktails, vinaigrettes, and sorbets. Use segments in grain bowls or alongside roasted beets for a visually striking dish. Blood orange curd is a colorful twist on lemon curd, and the zest adds floral complexity to baked goods and chocolate desserts.
When should I plant Blood Orange?
Plant Blood Orange in March, April, May. It takes approximately 365 days to reach maturity, with harvest typically in January, February, March, April.
What are good companion plants for Blood Orange?
Blood Orange grows well alongside Basil, Lavender. Companion planting can improve growth, flavor, and natural pest control.
What hardiness zones can Blood Orange grow in?
Blood Orange thrives in USDA hardiness zones 9 through 11. With greenhouse protection, it may be grown in zones 7 through 12.
How much sun does Blood Orange need?
Blood Orange requires Full Sun (6-8h+). This means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
How far apart should I space Blood Orange?
Space Blood Orange plants 300cm (118 inches) apart for optimal growth and air circulation.
What pests and diseases affect Blood Orange?
Common issues include Citrus Leafminer, Citrus Canker, Asian Citrus Psyllid, Phytophthora Root Rot. Prevention through good garden practices like crop rotation, proper spacing, and companion planting is the best approach. See the detailed pests and diseases section above for symptoms, prevention, and treatment for each.
How do I store Blood Orange after harvest?
Store blood oranges at room temperature for up to one week or refrigerate for three to four weeks. Their striking color makes them ideal for fresh eating and dramatic garnishes. Juice freezes well for up to six months and retains its ruby color. Blood orange marmalade showcases both the flavor and p...
What are the best Blood Orange varieties to grow?
Popular varieties include Moro, Tarocco, Sanguinello, Sanguine de Mussolini. Each has unique characteristics suited to different growing conditions and culinary preferences. See the varieties section above for detailed descriptions.
What soil does Blood Orange need?
Blood oranges prefer well-drained sandy loam or loamy soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Amend heavy clay soils with generous amounts of compost and coarse sand to improve drainage. Apply a balanced citrus fertilizer such as 8-8-8 or a specialized citrus blend three times per year: in February before spr...
Why is my blood orange flesh not red — it looks like a regular orange inside?
The red color in blood oranges is produced by anthocyanin pigments that only develop in response to cool temperatures, specifically nights consistently below 12°C during the ripening period from autumn through winter. If your tree is grown in a warm climate where winter nights stay above 15°C, the fruit will ripen and be sweet and juicy but will remain orange-fleshed — the cold trigger for anthocyanin production simply never occurs. For container growers in mild climates, partially exposing the tree to outdoor cool autumn nights before bringing it in for frost protection can help. The 'Moro' variety is the most reliable for developing deep color as it accumulates anthocyanins most readily of all the named varieties. There is no fertilizer, supplement, or pruning technique that can substitute for adequate winter cold.
When should I harvest blood oranges — how do I know they are ripe?
Blood oranges are typically ready from December through March in the Northern Hemisphere, with 'Moro' the earliest (from December) and 'Tarocco' the latest (February–March). Do not rely on external color alone — the skin may show only a faint blush even when the interior is deeply red. Cut a fruit open and taste it: ripe blood oranges are heavy with juice, have a complex sweet-sharp flavor with distinct berry undertones, and show vivid red or deep orange-red flesh. The flavor should not be aggressively sour or bland. Once ripe, blood oranges can hang on the tree for several weeks without deteriorating significantly, so harvest progressively as needed rather than all at once.
What is the difference between Moro, Tarocco, and Sanguinello blood oranges?
These are the three principal named Sicilian blood orange varieties, each with distinct characteristics. 'Moro' is the earliest to ripen (December–January), has the deepest red-to-purple flesh of all, the most intense anthocyanin content, a somewhat sharper flavor, and a skin that often develops a dark external blush. It is the best choice for cooler climates as it colors earliest. 'Tarocco' is mid-to-late season (January–March), widely considered the finest blood orange for fresh eating: seedless, extremely juicy, with the most complex and balanced flavor, though the flesh is lighter red than Moro. 'Sanguinello' is the latest, with a thick rind, good storage quality, and moderate red coloring. For most home gardeners, 'Moro' is the most rewarding choice due to its visual drama and early season arrival.
Can I grow a blood orange tree in a pot in a cool or cold climate?
Yes, and container culture is arguably the ideal solution for blood oranges in climates colder than USDA zone 9. Choose a compact or dwarf variety (grafted 'Moro' on a dwarfing rootstock is the most practical), use a large pot of at least 45–60 cm diameter with a specialist citrus or loam-based compost and excellent drainage, and place it outdoors in full sun during spring and summer. From October onward, allow the tree to experience the cool autumn nights that trigger anthocyanin production. Only move it into a frost-free but cool space (5–10°C is ideal — a cold greenhouse or unheated conservatory) when temperatures threaten to go below -2°C. Avoid keeping it in a warm room over winter — a warm indoor environment will not only fail to trigger the color development but will also prevent the cool rest period that blood oranges need to flower well the following spring.
My blood orange tree dropped most of its flowers without setting fruit — what went wrong?
Flower drop without fruit set is common in blood oranges and has several possible causes. Most sweet oranges including blood oranges are self-fertile, but pollination can fail in poor weather (cold, rain, or wind during flowering). If the tree is grown in an enclosed space, hand-pollinate with a soft artist's paintbrush, transferring pollen between flowers. Excessive nitrogen fertilization at flowering time pushes vegetative growth at the expense of fruit set — switch to a potassium-focused feed before and during flowering. Young trees (under 3–4 years from grafting) may flower but are not yet mature enough to hold fruit — this usually resolves naturally. Severe water stress or waterlogging at flowering time also causes drop. Ensure the tree is well-watered but not standing in water, and avoid nitrogen-heavy fertilizers from late winter through flowering.
Are blood oranges more difficult to grow than regular sweet oranges?
Blood oranges are not significantly more difficult to grow than standard sweet oranges in terms of their basic horticultural requirements — they need the same full sun, good drainage, regular citrus feeding, and frost protection. The one meaningful additional challenge is the requirement for cool winter nights to develop their signature red color and complex flavor. In climates with reliably cool winters (Mediterranean, coastal California, parts of Australia, and similar regions), blood oranges are no more demanding than any other citrus. The difficulty arises in permanently warm climates or in winter-warm greenhouses where the tree will fruit but the results will be disappointing. If you are in a marginal climate, 'Moro' is the most forgiving variety for color development. Container growing allows gardeners in cooler temperate climates to manage both the winter cold exposure and the frost protection the tree needs.
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Vladimir Kusnezow
Gardener and Software Developer
Zone 6b gardener. Growing vegetables and fruits in soil and hydroponics for 6 years. I built PlotMyGarden to plan my own gardens.
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