Taro

A tropical root crop with large, dramatic heart-shaped leaves, grown for its starchy corm that must be cooked before eating. Taro thrives in wet, boggy conditions and can even be grown in standing water like rice paddies. The corms are rich in starch and fiber, with a nutty, slightly sweet flavor when boiled, steamed, or fried into chips. All parts contain calcium oxalate crystals that are destroyed by thorough cooking, so never eat taro raw.

Taro is propagated vegetatively from corm sections or small cormels rather than seed. Select healthy cormels or cut the top inch of a large corm including at least one growing point. Allow cut surfaces to dry for 1-2 days to prevent rot. In zones 9-12, plant directly outdoors after the last frost when soil temperatures reach 70°F. In cooler climates, start corms indoors in large pots 6-8 weeks before the last frost date, keeping them warm and moist. Transplant outdoors when nighttime temperatures consistently stay above 60°F. Space plants 18-24 inches apart in rows 36-48 inches apart.

Taro requires consistently warm temperatures above 70°F and a long frost-free growing season of at least six months. Start by planting small corms or corm sections with at least one growth bud in spring after all danger of frost has passed. Plant 3-4 inches deep in rich, moisture-retentive soil amended with generous amounts of compost or well-rotted manure.

This crop thrives in boggy, waterlogged conditions that would kill most other vegetables. Many growers cultivate taro in flooded paddies or in containers placed in shallow trays of water. If growing in regular garden soil, mulch heavily and water deeply and frequently to keep the soil constantly moist. Provide partial shade in hot climates, as the large leaves can scorch in intense direct sun.

Fertilize every 3-4 weeks with a balanced organic fertilizer or fish emulsion during the active growing season. Taro is a heavy feeder that benefits from side-dressing with compost mid-season. In cooler climates (zones 7-8), start corms indoors 6-8 weeks before the last frost and grow in large containers that can be moved indoors before fall temperatures drop. Hilling soil around the base encourages larger corm development.

Taro grows well alongside ginger and turmeric, which share similar tropical growing requirements and partial shade preferences. Lemongrass planted nearby can help repel certain pests. In traditional Polynesian garden systems, taro is grown with sweet potato, banana, and breadfruit in complementary polycultures. Avoid planting near heavy-feeding brassicas that compete for nutrients. Taro's large leaves provide ground shade that can benefit shallow-rooted herbs planted nearby. Legumes grown in adjacent beds fix nitrogen that benefits taro's heavy feeding needs.

Taro thrives in rich, heavy, moisture-retentive soil with a pH of 5.5-6.5. Amend planting areas with generous amounts of compost, aged manure, and leaf mold to increase organic matter content. For wetland culture, heavy clay soils work well as they retain standing water. Apply a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) at planting, then switch to a nitrogen-rich fertilizer every 3-4 weeks during active growth. Side-dress with compost or well-rotted manure mid-season. Potassium is especially important for corm development, so supplement with wood ash or kelp meal as corms begin to size up.

Ideal Temperature

Hardiness Zone Compatibility

Taro is ready to harvest when the leaves begin to yellow and die back naturally, typically 7-12 months after planting depending on the variety. Carefully dig around the plant with a garden fork, loosening soil well away from the corm to avoid damage. Lift the entire plant and shake off excess soil. Separate the main corm from the smaller cormels, which can be saved for replanting. Cure harvested corms in a warm, dry location for a few days before storage. Remember that all parts must be thoroughly cooked before eating to destroy calcium oxalate crystals.

Storage & Preservation

Store unwashed taro corms in a cool, dark, well-ventilated area at 45-55°F with moderate humidity. Under proper conditions, corms will keep for several months. Do not refrigerate, as temperatures below 45°F cause chilling injury. For longer preservation, peel, cut into cubes, blanch for 3 minutes, and freeze for up to 12 months. Taro can also be peeled, sliced thin, and dehydrated into chips. Cooked taro mash freezes well and can be thawed for poi, soups, or baking applications.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

The most common challenge with taro is providing enough warmth and moisture in temperate climates. Insufficient water leads to small, fibrous corms with poor flavor. Cold temperatures below 60°F slow growth dramatically and frost kills the plant outright. Leaves may develop brown edges from wind damage or low humidity. Corms planted too shallowly may turn green and become bitter. In areas with short growing seasons, start plants indoors and use black plastic mulch to warm the soil. Overwatering in poorly drained non-paddy soil can lead to root rot.

Growing Tips

1. Moisture is everything with taro. Unlike nearly every other vegetable, taro cannot be overwatered. In paddy culture, maintain 5-10 cm of standing water throughout the growing season. In dryland culture, water deeply every 2-3 days and never allow the soil to dry out — a single drought episode during corm bulking can reduce yields by 40-60%.
2. Start with the best planting material you can find. The top 2-3 cm of a mature corm (called the huli) with a portion of the petiole attached produces the fastest, most vigorous growth. Small cormels also work well. Avoid planting old, shriveled, or damaged corms that are prone to rot.
3. Partial shade produces the best results in most gardens. Taro evolved as an understory plant and performs optimally with 4-6 hours of direct sun plus filtered light for the remainder of the day. Full tropical sun can scorch leaves and stress plants — provide afternoon shade in hot climates.
4. Feed heavily and often. Taro is one of the heaviest-feeding crops in the garden. Apply a nitrogen-rich fertilizer every 3-4 weeks during vegetative growth, then switch to potassium-rich feeds (kelp meal, wood ash) once corms begin bulking at around 4 months. Compost tea applied every 2 weeks gives excellent results.
5. Hill the soil around the base of the plant as it grows, similar to potatoes. This encourages larger corm development, prevents the top of the corm from turning green (which causes bitterness), and provides support for the tall, heavy leaf canopy.
6. In temperate climates (zones 7-8), use every trick available to extend the season. Start corms indoors 6-8 weeks early, use black plastic mulch to warm the soil, plant against a south-facing wall for reflected heat, and cover with row fabric on cool nights. Every extra week of warm growing conditions translates directly into larger corms.
7. Grow in containers if your climate is marginal. A 60-80 liter container (15-20 gallons) placed in a shallow tray kept filled with water mimics paddy conditions beautifully. Containers can be moved indoors or to a greenhouse when temperatures threaten to drop below 15°C (60°F).
8. Never eat any part of the taro plant raw. All parts contain calcium oxalate crystals (raphides) that cause intense burning and irritation of the mouth and throat. Thorough cooking — boiling for at least 30-45 minutes, steaming, or baking — completely neutralizes these crystals and makes taro perfectly safe and delicious to eat.