Flowers · PerennialsCentranthus ruber

Red Valerian

A tough, drought-tolerant perennial producing dense clusters of small rosy-red, pink, or white flowers over a very long season.

Full Sun (6-8h+)Low (drought-tolerant)365 daysDifficultyBeginner Friendly
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Red Valerian
Sow & harvest reminderstuned to your local frost dates
Sunlight
Full Sun (6-8h+)
Water Need
Low (drought-tolerant)
Frost Tolerance
Hardy (withstands frost)
Days to Maturity
365 days
Plant Spacing
45 cm
18 in
Hardiness Zones
Zone 5–9
USDA
Difficulty
Beginner Friendly
Expected Yield
100 to
On this pageOverview
01 · Overview

Meet Red Valerian

A tough, drought-tolerant perennial producing dense clusters of small rosy-red, pink, or white flowers over a very long season. Red valerian self-sows freely and thrives in alkaline, rocky, and poor soils where it often colonizes old walls and stony banks. Cut back hard after the first flush to encourage a strong repeat bloom.

365
days from seed to your first harvest. Time your whole season around it — sow, feed and pick dates all key off this one number.
02 · When to plant

When to plant Red Valerian

Sow seeds on the surface of gritty compost in spring. Germination takes 14-21 days at 60-65°F (15-18°C). Plant out in well-drained soil. Red valerian self-sows so freely that deliberate seed starting is rarely necessary once a mother plant is established.

The Season Plate

Your Red Valerian Year

Composed for Zone 7 · typical seasons · frost passes Apr 2, returns Nov 1

Sow Red Valerian Mar – May, pick May – Sep. Set your climate below and every date on this plate re-times itself.

Red Valerian
Centranthus ruber
JFMAMJJASONDMar – MaySOWING SEASON
Sowing window
Mar – May
re-timed to your frost dates
Plant out
after Apr 2
once frost risk has passed
First picking
around Mar 15
≈ 365 days from sowing · 100 to per plant
Composed for —Used once to set your season · only the zone is kept
Week-by-week Red Valerian reminders watering, feeding and pruning, timed to your dates
In the app
Frost alerts for your garden a warning before a cold night costs you the crop
In the app
Succession sowing dates so the picking never gaps mid-season
In the app
Keep my dates — free for 7 daysWe nudge you as each window opens · cancel anytime
03 · Growing guide

How to grow Red Valerian

Red valerian is a vigorous, drought-tolerant perennial that thrives in poor, alkaline, rocky soil—it famously colonizes old stone walls, cliff faces, and railway embankments across southern Europe. Plant in spring, spacing 18 inches apart in full sun with well-drained soil.

Red valerian is undemanding once established. It flourishes in lean, dry conditions and actually performs poorly in rich, moist soil. The dense clusters of tiny flowers appear from late spring through autumn if deadheaded regularly. Cut the entire plant back by half after the first flush fades for a vigorous second round of blooms.

Be aware that red valerian self-sows prolifically—remove spent flower heads before seeds mature if you want to control its spread. In some regions, it can become mildly invasive, particularly in coastal and Mediterranean climates.

Dense cluster of star-shaped red valerian flowers
The dense cymes of tiny tubular flowers attract a wide range of pollinators
The Spacing Plate
4 × 8 ft · 45 cm

10 plants fit a 4 × 8 ft bed

Each Red Valerian wants 45 cm of elbow room. The planner keeps that spacing for you — every plant, every bed.

Your bed —
10 plants, properly spaced — room to grow without crowding. Sowing opens in Mar where you garden.
Lay out my Red Valerian bedAuto-spaced in the planner · free for 7 days
04 · Companions

Red Valerian's best neighbours

Red valerian is classic in Mediterranean-style gardens alongside lavender, rosemary, and cistus. It looks natural growing from cracks in walls and between paving stones. Pair with other drought-tolerant plants like achillea, sea holly, and ornamental grasses. The long flowering season provides nectar for butterflies and moths.

The Society Table

Yarrow belongs beside it.

Old growers' knowledge, checked against Red Valerian's real companion table below — test any plant you're growing.

Grows well in the company of · 3
Keep apart · 0
no recorded foes
Plant Red Valerian with good neighboursThe planner flags conflicts before they're in the ground
05 · Soil & feeding

Feed it well

Red valerian thrives in poor, well-drained, alkaline soil with a pH of 7.0-8.5. It performs best in lean, rocky conditions and actually declines in rich, amended garden soil. No fertilizer is needed—ever. Add lime to acidic soils. The plant is supremely adapted to dry, chalky, and stony situations.

Ideal Temperature

-12°C – 35°C
-20°C0°C20°C40°C

Hardiness Zone Compatibility

12345678910111213
Ideal (zones 5-9)Greenhouse / protection neededNot recommended
06 · Growth stages

From seed to harvest, stage by stage

0–21 days

Seed Germination

Seeds are surface-sown or lightly covered. Germination is irregular and can take two to three weeks at temperatures around 15 to 20 degrees Celsius. Seeds require light to germinate so they should not be buried deeply.

21–60 days

Seedling Development

Seedlings develop their first true leaves which are opposite and slightly fleshy. The young plants form a small basal rosette and begin establishing their taproot system in the growing medium.

60–150 days

Vegetative Growth

The plant produces upright stems with opposite, glaucous blue-green leaves. It develops a woody base and begins branching. The taproot deepens, allowing the plant to access moisture from well below the surface.

150–210 days

First Flowering

Terminal cymes of small tubular flowers appear in shades of deep pink, red, or white. Each flower has a single stamen and a slender spur at the base. First-year plants may bloom modestly but second-year plants flower profusely.

210–270 days

Repeat Bloom and Seed Set

After deadheading, the plant produces successive flushes of flowers through late summer and into early autumn. Seeds develop with a feathery pappus that aids wind dispersal over considerable distances.

270–365 days

Dormancy

As temperatures drop in autumn, top growth dies back. The woody rootstock remains alive below ground and will produce fresh shoots the following spring. In mild climates some basal foliage may persist through winter.

Care Tip

Keep the seed tray moist but not waterlogged. Use a fine mist sprayer to avoid displacing the tiny seeds from the surface of the growing medium.

07 · Monthly care

Caring for Red Valerian month by month

What to do each month for your Red Valerian

July

You are here

No specific care tasks for this month.

The Grower's Almanac

Know exactly what to do in your garden — every month

One email at the start of each month: what to sow, plant, and tackle right now — for your Red Valerian and everything growing around it. Plus a short starter course that helps you dodge the classic mistakes.

  • What to do, right now
  • Matched to your season
  • Starter course included
08 · Harvest

Harvesting Red Valerian

Cut flower clusters for informal arrangements when most florets are open. Red valerian makes charming additions to cottage-style bouquets alongside wildflowers and herbs. Flowers last 5-7 days in the vase. Regular cutting encourages continued bloom production.

Feathery pappus seed heads of centranthus ready to disperse
Each seed develops a feathery pappus similar to dandelion for wind dispersal
The Margin Note
When did you plant?

assuming you sow when the window opens — set your real date

Started from
365days to first pick
PlantedJun 15, 2026 · Seed · ≈ 365 days to maturity
Picking windowJun 15, 2027Jul 15, 2027

Pick Red Valerian promptly and the plant keeps producing.

Get my week-by-week planHarvest reminders arrive as your window opens

Storage & Preservation

Red valerian is fully hardy and needs no special storage. Cut plants back hard in late autumn or leave standing for winter interest. Self-sown seedlings provide natural replacement. Seed can be saved by allowing some flower heads to dry on the plant.

09 · Pests

What goes wrong — and the fix

Aphids

Pest

Green insects on flower clusters. Usually minor and cosmetic.

Prevention Encourage natural predators. Plants typically tolerate minor infestations.
Fix: Blast off with water. Rarely requires chemical intervention.

Root Rot

Disease

Plants wilt in wet, heavy soil. Roots mushy.

Prevention Ensure excellent drainage. Avoid rich, moist soil.
Fix: Move to better-drained location. Add grit to planting holes.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Self-sowing is the main management issue—red valerian can spread aggressively via seed in favorable conditions. Remove spent flowers before seeds mature to control spreading. Plants in rich, moist soil become leggy and floppy, losing the compact habit seen on wild plants growing in stone walls and poor ground.

Growing Tips

  1. Choose the poorest, most well-drained spot in your garden for centranthus. Rich fertile soil and heavy clay produce lush foliage but fewer flowers and a plant more prone to flopping over.
  2. Add crushed limestone or builders rubble to acidic soils before planting. Centranthus strongly prefers alkaline to neutral pH and performs poorly in acidic conditions below pH 6.0.
  3. Water newly planted centranthus regularly for the first six weeks to help the taproot establish, then stop watering entirely except during extreme prolonged drought lasting more than four weeks.
  4. Deadhead spent flower clusters by cutting stems back to the first set of leaves below the faded blooms. This encourages rapid regrowth and a fresh flush of flowers within three to four weeks.
  5. Prevent unwanted self-seeding by removing flower heads before the feathery seed pappus develops. Once the seeds become airborne they can colonise walls, paths, and neighbouring gardens.
  6. Propagate named colour forms by division or basal cuttings rather than seed, as seed-grown plants show considerable variation in flower colour from deep crimson to pale pink and white.
  7. Cut the entire plant back hard to 15 cm above ground level in midsummer if it becomes leggy or untidy. It will regenerate rapidly and produce a compact mound of fresh growth and flowers by early autumn.
  8. Plant centranthus at the base of south-facing or west-facing walls where reflected heat and excellent drainage create ideal Mediterranean-like microclimates for vigorous flowering.
  9. Combine centranthus with other drought-tolerant plants like lavender, rosemary, nepeta, and erigeron for a low-maintenance border that thrives on neglect and attracts abundant pollinators.
  10. Divide established clumps every three to four years in early spring by lifting the rootstock and cutting it into sections with a sharp knife. Replant divisions immediately at the same depth in prepared free-draining soil.
10 · Varieties

Pick your Red Valerian

Centranthus ruber 'Coccineus'

Deep rosy-red flowers, the most intensely colored form and the most commonly grown.

ADvia AmazonShop seeds

Centranthus ruber 'Albus'

Pure white flowers that brighten shady walls and contrast beautifully with the red form.

ADvia AmazonShop seeds

Centranthus ruber 'Rosenrot'

Deep rose-pink flowers, intermediate between the red and white forms.

ADvia AmazonShop seeds
Why Grow Your Own?

Centranthus ruber is one of the most cost-effective ornamental edibles you can grow. A single packet of seeds costing two to three dollars can produce dozens of plants that self-seed freely year after year. Once established, the plant requires virtually no watering, no fertiliser, and no pest control, making ongoing costs essentially zero. It thrives in poor soil and neglected corners where other plants struggle, transforming bare walls and gravel areas into productive and beautiful garden features at no additional expense.

11 · Recipes

Quick recipes

Mediterranean Red Valerian Salad

Mediterranean Red Valerian Salad

10 minutes

A fresh spring salad featuring tender young centranthus leaves tossed with cherry tomatoes, shaved Parmesan, toasted pine nuts, and a simple lemon and olive oil dressing. The mild bitterness of the leaves complements the sweet tomatoes and nutty cheese.

7 ingredients
Sauteed Centranthus Greens with Garlic

Sauteed Centranthus Greens with Garlic

15 minutes

Young centranthus leaves and tender shoot tips are quickly sauteed with garlic and a pinch of chilli flakes in olive oil, then finished with a squeeze of lemon. This traditional Mediterranean preparation makes an excellent side dish or bruschetta topping.

7 ingredients
Red Valerian Flower Infusion

Red Valerian Flower Infusion

5 minutes plus 10 minutes steeping

A calming herbal tisane made from fresh or dried centranthus flowers steeped in hot water. The infusion has a delicate floral aroma with a faintly honeyed taste and is traditionally enjoyed in the evening as a mild relaxant.

4 ingredients
12 · Nutrition

What's inside

Per 100g serving
22
Calories
Vitamin C18 mg per 100 g (approximately 20 percent of daily value)
Vitamin A210 mcg RAE per 100 g (approximately 23 percent of daily value)
Potassium290 mg per 100 g (approximately 6 percent of daily value)
Fiber2.4 g per 100 g (approximately 9 percent of daily value)

Health Benefits

  • Young leaves provide a good source of vitamin C and antioxidants that support immune system function and help protect cells from oxidative damage caused by free radicals.
  • The mild sedative properties attributed to centranthus root in traditional folk medicine suggest it may support relaxation, though its effects are considerably milder than those of true valerian.
  • As a low-calorie leafy green, centranthus leaves can contribute to a balanced diet by providing essential micronutrients without adding significant calories or fat to meals.
  • The dietary fibre found in centranthus leaves supports healthy digestion, promotes regular bowel movements, and contributes to a feeling of satiety after eating.
  • Centranthus leaves contain beta-carotene and other carotenoid pigments that the body converts to vitamin A, supporting healthy vision, skin integrity, and mucous membrane function.
  • The potassium content in centranthus greens contributes to healthy cardiovascular function by helping to regulate blood pressure and supporting proper muscle and nerve signalling.
13 · History

Where Red Valerian comes from

Centranthus ruber, commonly known as red valerian or Jupiter's beard, is native to the Mediterranean basin, where it grows wild across southern Europe, Turkey, and parts of North Africa. It is found in rocky limestone habitats, cliff faces, old walls, and dry stony banks from sea level up to around 1500 metres elevation. The plant has been cultivated in European gardens since at least the late 1500s, when it was introduced to Britain and northern Europe as an ornamental. The English herbalist John Gerard mentioned it in his Herball of 1597, noting its vigorous self-seeding habit. By the 1700s it had naturalised extensively across the British Isles and was a familiar sight on old walls, ruins, and railway cuttings. In the Mediterranean, the young leaves and tender shoots have been consumed as a potherb and salad ingredient for centuries. In parts of southern France and Italy, centranthus leaves were traditionally gathered in spring and eaten raw or lightly cooked. The roots were sometimes used in folk medicine as a mild sedative, though the plant lacks the valepotriates found in true valerian and its medicinal use was never widely adopted. Centranthus ruber has since been introduced to temperate regions worldwide including North America, Australia, and New Zealand, where it has naturalised in coastal and urban environments. Its tolerance of poor alkaline soils, drought, and neglect has made it a valuable plant for low-maintenance landscaping, xeriscaping, and wildlife gardens. Modern gardeners prize it for its exceptionally long flowering season, its attractiveness to butterflies and other pollinators, and its ability to soften hard landscape features like walls, steps, and gravel paths with its relaxed and naturalistic growth habit.

14 · Did you know?

Red Valerian: did you know?

Fascinating facts about Red Valerian

Centranthus ruber has been used as a salad green in Mediterranean countries for centuries. The young leaves have a mild, slightly bitter flavour and were historically eaten in Italy and France before modern salad greens became widely cultivated.

15 · FAQ

Red Valerian questions, answered

When should I plant Red Valerian?
Plant Red Valerian in March, April, May. It takes approximately 365 days to reach maturity, with harvest typically in May, June, July, August, September.
What are good companion plants for Red Valerian?
Red Valerian grows well alongside Yarrow, Perennial Salvia, Russian Sage. Companion planting can improve growth, flavor, and natural pest control.
What hardiness zones can Red Valerian grow in?
Red Valerian thrives in USDA hardiness zones 5 through 9. With greenhouse protection, it may be grown in zones 3 through 10.
How much sun does Red Valerian need?
Red Valerian requires Full Sun (6-8h+). This means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
How far apart should I space Red Valerian?
Space Red Valerian plants 45cm (18 inches) apart for optimal growth and air circulation.
What pests and diseases affect Red Valerian?
Common issues include Aphids, Root Rot. Prevention through good garden practices like crop rotation, proper spacing, and companion planting is the best approach. See the detailed pests and diseases section above for symptoms, prevention, and treatment for each.
How do I store Red Valerian after harvest?
Red valerian is fully hardy and needs no special storage. Cut plants back hard in late autumn or leave standing for winter interest. Self-sown seedlings provide natural replacement. Seed can be saved by allowing some flower heads to dry on the plant.
What are the best Red Valerian varieties to grow?
Popular varieties include Centranthus ruber 'Coccineus', Centranthus ruber 'Albus', Centranthus ruber 'Rosenrot'. Each has unique characteristics suited to different growing conditions and culinary preferences. See the varieties section above for detailed descriptions.
What soil does Red Valerian need?
Red valerian thrives in poor, well-drained, alkaline soil with a pH of 7.0-8.5. It performs best in lean, rocky conditions and actually declines in rich, amended garden soil. No fertilizer is needed—ever. Add lime to acidic soils. The plant is supremely adapted to dry, chalky, and stony situations.
Is Centranthus ruber the same as true valerian used in herbal supplements?
No, they are different plants. True valerian is Valeriana officinalis, which contains valepotriates and other active compounds used in sleep and anxiety supplements. Centranthus ruber belongs to a separate genus in the same family and lacks these specific medicinal compounds. Despite sharing the common name valerian, they should not be used interchangeably for medicinal purposes.
How do I stop centranthus from spreading too aggressively in my garden?
The key is consistent deadheading before seeds develop their feathery pappus. Cut spent flower clusters back to the nearest leaf node immediately after blooming finishes. If volunteer seedlings appear, remove them when small as the taproot becomes increasingly difficult to extract once established. Avoiding bare soil and gravel near the parent plant also reduces successful germination of any escaped seeds.
Can centranthus grow in shade or does it require full sun?
Centranthus performs best in full sun with at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. It can tolerate light partial shade, particularly afternoon shade in very hot climates, but flowering will be significantly reduced. In heavy shade the plant becomes leggy, produces very few flowers, and is more susceptible to powdery mildew due to poor air circulation around the foliage.
Are all parts of the centranthus plant edible and safe to eat?
The young leaves, tender shoot tips, and flowers are all edible and have been consumed as food in Mediterranean countries for centuries. The roots have been used in folk medicine but are not commonly eaten as food. Always harvest from plants that have not been treated with pesticides or herbicides, and as with any foraged or garden-grown edible, introduce it to your diet gradually to check for individual sensitivities.
Why is my centranthus producing lots of leaves but very few flowers?
The most common cause of poor flowering is soil that is too rich in nitrogen. Centranthus evolved in nutrient-poor rocky soils and responds to high fertility by producing excessive leafy growth at the expense of blooms. Stop fertilising, avoid mulching with rich compost, and ensure the plant receives full sun. Insufficient sunlight is the second most common cause of poor flowering in centranthus.
How long does centranthus live and when should I replace established plants?
Centranthus ruber is a short-lived perennial typically lasting three to five years before the woody base becomes unproductive. However, it self-seeds so freely that replacement plants appear naturally. To maintain vigorous stock, divide plants every three to four years or allow self-sown seedlings to establish as replacements. Take cuttings or collect seed from your best-performing plants to ensure continuity of desirable colour forms.
Why gardeners switch

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Set your location once. Get sow, feed and harvest dates built around your real last-frost date and live forecast — no more guessing from a generic seed packet.

From the “When to plant” section

Drag-and-drop bed planner

Design beds on a grid. Every plant snaps to its proper spacing, and you can see your whole season laid out before you spend a cent on seed.

From the “Growing guide” section

Companion conflicts, caught early

200+ good-and-bad pairings checked live as you plant — so a season-wrecking mistake never makes it into the ground.

From the “Companions” section

Reminders you'll actually act on

“Water the beans.” “Pick today before it turns.” Timely, specific, and tied to the plants you're really growing.

From the “Harvest” section

Succession, scheduled

Want a harvest for six weeks, not six days? It spaces your sowings automatically and reminds you when each new block is due.

From the “When to plant” section

A record that gets smarter

Every harvest you log teaches it your garden. Next year's plan starts from what actually worked in your soil, not a textbook's.

From the “Overview” section
Companion crops

Plant these alongside Red Valerian

Keep growing

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