Weeping Cherry

A breathtaking specimen tree with cascading branches that form a curtain of pink or white blossoms each spring, creating a romantic, waterfall-like effect. Weeping cherries are typically grafted, so remove any upright shoots that emerge from below the graft union to maintain the weeping habit. They make stunning focal points near ponds, patios, or at the end of garden paths where their arching form can be fully appreciated. Provide full sun and well-drained soil, and prune minimally to preserve the natural cascade of branches.

Weeping cherry seeds require the same treatment as other ornamental Prunus. Collect any small fruits that form, remove pulp, and cold-stratify in moist peat at 35 to 40 degrees for 90 to 120 days. However, seedlings will not inherit the weeping habit, growing instead as upright trees. The weeping form is maintained only through grafting scion wood from a weeping cultivar onto upright rootstock, a technique best performed by skilled nursery propagators in late winter or early spring using whip-and-tongue or chip-bud grafting methods.

The Season Plate

Your Weeping Cherry Year

Composed for Zone 7 · typical seasons · frost passes Apr 2, returns Nov 1

Sow Weeping Cherry Mar – Apr, Oct – Nov, pick —. Set your climate below and every date on this plate re-times itself.

Sowing window

Mar – Apr, Oct – Nov

re-timed to your frost dates

Plant out

after Apr 2

once frost risk has passed

First picking

around Mar 14

≈ 1460 days from sowing · 2-3 weeks per plant

Composed for —ColdTemperateMildWarmUse my locationUsed once to set your season · only the zone is kept

Week-by-week Weeping Cherry reminders watering, feeding and pruning, timed to your dates

In the app

Frost alerts for your garden a warning before a cold night costs you the crop

In the app

Succession sowing dates so the picking never gaps mid-season

In the app

Prefer email? Get monthly reminders in the Almanac

Keep my dates — free for 7 daysWe nudge you as each window opens · cancel anytime

Weeping cherry is among the most dramatic and romantic ornamental trees, with pendulous branches cascading to the ground in a curtain of spring blossoms. Most garden specimens are grafted, with the weeping cultivar grafted onto an upright rootstock at a height of 5 to 6 feet. Choose a site with full sun and well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Position the tree as a specimen where the full weeping form can be appreciated from multiple angles.

Plant in spring or fall. Stake newly planted grafted trees for the first year or two until the graft union is well established. Water deeply at planting and weekly during the first two growing seasons. Apply 2 to 3 inches of organic mulch, keeping it away from the trunk.

The most critical maintenance task is removing any shoots that emerge from below the graft union, which will be upright-growing and will eventually dominate and kill the weeping top if left unchecked. Remove these suckers as soon as they appear by tearing or cutting flush to the trunk. Prune the weeping canopy lightly after flowering, removing any branches that drag on the ground or cross other branches. The interior of the canopy should be thinned periodically to allow air circulation and prevent disease.

The weeping cherry's dramatic form is best showcased against a simple backdrop. Low groundcovers like creeping phlox, sweet woodruff, or moss provide a clean base that doesn't compete visually with the cascading branches. Spring bulbs including daffodils, scilla, and grape hyacinths create a colorful carpet beneath the blooming tree. Avoid tall shrubs or perennials near the canopy that interfere with the flowing branch habit. Position near water features where the weeping form and its reflection create a double display.

The Society Table

Daffodil belongs beside it. Walnut Tree doesn't.

Old growers' knowledge, checked against Weeping Cherry's real companion table below — test any plant you're growing.

Grows well in the company of · 3

DaffodilTulipPansy

Keep apart · 1

Walnut Tree

Plant Weeping Cherry with good neighboursThe planner flags conflicts before they're in the ground

Weeping cherry requires well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. It performs best in loamy, fertile soil but tolerates clay if drainage is improved. Avoid wet sites where root rot and crown rot are risks. Fertilize lightly in early spring with a balanced slow-release fertilizer. Excessive nitrogen promotes rank vegetative growth that detracts from the graceful weeping form. Mulch with 2 to 3 inches of organic matter to maintain soil moisture and reduce weed competition around the base.

Ideal Temperature

Hardiness Zone Compatibility

Weeping cherry is grown purely for ornamental value and does not produce edible fruit. The cascading flower-laden branches can be cut for spectacular indoor arrangements in spring. Cut branches when buds show color but before fully opening for the longest vase life. The dramatic weeping form is particularly stunning when illuminated from below for evening garden lighting. In Japanese tradition, weeping cherries are considered among the most elegant and emotionally evocative of all flowering trees.

Storage & Preservation

Cut flowering branches of weeping cherry last 5 to 8 days in water. Recut stems at an angle and use floral preservative to extend life. Dormant branches cut in late winter can be forced into bloom indoors by placing in warm water in a bright room; expect blooms in 1 to 3 weeks. Individual flowers can be preserved following the Japanese sakura-zuke method, pickling partially opened blossoms in salt and plum vinegar for use in traditional teas and confections.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Rootstock suckers are the most persistent problem with grafted weeping cherries. Vigorous upright shoots from below the graft will overwhelm and kill the weeping top if not removed promptly. The graft union is a weak point susceptible to canker infections, mechanical damage, and frost cracking. Short lifespan of 20 to 30 years is typical. Borers attack stressed trees, especially through wounds near the graft. Japanese beetles can severely defoliate trees in mid-summer in affected regions. Branches dragging on the ground are prone to fungal infections and should be trimmed to maintain clearance.

Growing Tips

1. Select a planting site with full sun exposure (at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily) and well-drained soil to promote vigorous flowering and reduce fungal disease risk.
2. Dig the planting hole two to three times wider than the root ball but no deeper, ensuring the graft union remains 2-4 inches above the soil line to prevent scion rooting.
3. Water newly planted trees deeply twice per week for the first two growing seasons to establish a robust root system before reducing to supplemental watering during dry periods.
4. Apply a 3-4 inch layer of organic mulch such as composted bark or wood chips in a wide ring around the tree, keeping the mulch at least 4 inches away from the trunk to prevent rot.
5. Prune immediately after flowering ends in late spring to shape the canopy and remove any upright-growing suckers that emerge below the graft union, as these will be from the non-weeping rootstock.
6. Fertilize once annually in early spring with a balanced slow-release granular fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar) spread evenly beneath the drip line of the canopy.
7. Monitor regularly for common pests including aphids, Japanese beetles, spider mites, and tent caterpillars, treating with targeted controls such as insecticidal soap or Bt as needed.
8. Inspect the trunk and major branches annually for signs of bacterial canker (dark sunken lesions with amber gum) and prune affected wood at least 6 inches below the infected area with sterilized tools.
9. Protect the trunk of young trees from sunscald in winter by wrapping with a commercial tree guard or painting with white latex diluted 50-50 with water.
10. Avoid planting in low-lying areas where cold air collects, as late spring frosts can damage flower buds and significantly reduce the bloom display.