Fruits · Tropical FruitsLitchi chinensis

Lychee

An evergreen subtropical tree producing clusters of bumpy red-skinned fruits with translucent, fragrant, juicy flesh.

Full Sun (6-8h+)High (consistent moisture)1825 daysDifficultyAdvanced
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Lychee
Sow & harvest reminderstuned to your local frost dates
Sunlight
Full Sun (6-8h+)
Water Need
High (consistent moisture)
Frost Tolerance
Tender (no frost)
Days to Maturity
1825 days
Plant Spacing
600 cm
236 in
Hardiness Zones
Zone 10–12
USDA
Difficulty
Advanced
Expected Yield
3–5 years
On this pageOverview
01 · Overview

Meet Lychee

An evergreen subtropical tree producing clusters of bumpy red-skinned fruits with translucent, fragrant, juicy flesh. Lychees require a cool, dry winter period to initiate flowering, followed by warm, humid conditions for fruit development. They are slow to establish and may take five or more years to produce their first crop.

1825
days from seed to your first harvest. Time your whole season around it — sow, feed and pick dates all key off this one number.
02 · When to plant

When to plant Lychee

Lychee seeds lose viability quickly and should be planted within days of extraction from the fruit. Clean the seed and plant it horizontally about one inch deep in moist, well-draining potting mix. Keep warm at 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit and consistently moist. Germination occurs in one to four weeks. Seedling trees are not true to type and may take ten or more years to fruit, so grafted or air-layered trees are strongly preferred for fruit production.

Planting & harvest schedule

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First harvestMar 14 · from sowing to first pick
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03 · Growing guide

How to grow Lychee

Lychee trees perform best in warm subtropical climates with distinct cool and dry winter periods that trigger flowering. Choose a planting site with full sun and protection from strong winds, as lychee branches are somewhat brittle. Dig a hole three times wider than the root ball and amend heavy clay soils with compost to improve drainage. Water deeply after planting and maintain consistent moisture during the first two years.

Lychees are sensitive to soil pH and prefer slightly acidic conditions between 5.0 and 5.5. Apply a thick layer of organic mulch extending to the drip line to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Fertilize young trees every two months with a balanced fertilizer, switching to a low-nitrogen, high-potassium formula once trees begin fruiting. Avoid excessive nitrogen, which promotes vegetative growth at the expense of flowers.

Pruning should be done immediately after harvest to shape the canopy and remove dead or crossing branches. This timing allows new growth to mature before the next flowering cycle. Lychee trees are shallow-rooted and sensitive to waterlogging, so ensure excellent drainage. In areas with occasional light frost, protect young trees with frost cloth during cold snaps.

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04 · Soil & feeding

Feed it well

Lychees require well-draining, acidic soil with a pH of 5.0 to 5.5. They do not tolerate alkaline conditions, which cause iron and manganese deficiencies. Amend alkaline soils with sulfur and use acidifying fertilizers. Apply a complete fertilizer formulated for acid-loving tropical fruit trees three to four times per year. Supplement with chelated iron and manganese if leaf yellowing occurs. Organic matter in the form of compost or aged manure improves soil structure and nutrient retention.

Ideal Temperature

5°C – 38°C
0°C15°C30°C45°C

Hardiness Zone Compatibility

12345678910111213
Ideal (zones 10-12)Greenhouse / protection neededNot recommended
05 · Growth stages

From seed to harvest, stage by stage

0–365 days

Seedling / Establishment

Lychee begins as a slow-growing seedling or air-layered cutting. During the first year, the plant focuses almost entirely on root development and establishing a sturdy root system. Foliage flushes appear in waves of bronze-red new growth that gradually matures to dark glossy green.

365–1095 days

Juvenile Growth

Years two and three bring accelerated canopy development. The tree produces multiple flush cycles each year, with each new flush hardening off before the next emerges. Branching structure becomes more defined, and the tree begins to resemble its mature form. No fruiting occurs at this stage.

1095–1460 days

Pre-Flowering Stress Period

Mature lychee trees require a cool, dry stress period in autumn and winter to initiate flower bud formation. Temperatures between 10–15°C (50–59°F) for 4–6 weeks, combined with reduced irrigation, signal the tree to shift from vegetative growth to reproductive mode.

1460–1490 days

Flowering & Pollination

In late winter to early spring, the tree erupts in large panicles of small, fragrant, yellowish-white flowers. Each panicle can contain hundreds to thousands of individual flowers. Lychee flowers are visited by bees and other pollinators. Both male and female flowers appear on the same panicle, making cross-pollination between trees beneficial.

1490–1580 days

Fruit Development

After successful pollination, small green fruits develop rapidly. They undergo a critical cell-division phase in the first few weeks, then expand dramatically over the following 10–12 weeks. The fruit skin transitions from green to yellow-green and finally to the characteristic pink-red or crimson color as sugars accumulate.

1580–1610 days

Ripening & Harvest

Lychees ripen approximately 90–120 days after flower set. Ripe fruits display a fully colored, bright red or pink skin (variety dependent), are firm yet slightly yielding to the touch, and emit a sweet floral fragrance. The entire cluster ripens within a short window of 1–2 weeks.

1610–1825 days

Post-Harvest Rest & Flush

After harvest, the tree enters a period of vigorous vegetative flushing as it replenishes energy reserves. This post-harvest flush is critical for setting next year's crop. The tree produces one or more strong growth flushes before the onset of the autumn stress period.

Care Tip

Keep the root zone consistently moist but never waterlogged. Protect from direct afternoon sun during the hottest months and from any frost. Avoid fertilizing heavily during the first few months to prevent root burn.

Lychee tree in bloom with small white flower clusters
Delicate lychee flower panicles that precede fruit development
06 · Monthly care

Caring for Lychee month by month

What to do each month for your Lychee

July

You are here

No specific care tasks for this month.

07 · Harvest

Harvesting Lychee

Lychees are ready to harvest when the skin turns fully red or pink depending on variety and the bumps flatten slightly. Taste-test a fruit to confirm sweetness, as lychees do not ripen further after picking. Harvest entire clusters by cutting the panicle stem with pruning shears, keeping a short section of branch attached. Pick in the morning when fruit temperatures are cool. Handle gently to avoid bruising the delicate skin.

Large cluster of lychee fruits hanging from branch
A prolific cluster of lychees developing on a well-established tree
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Harvest trackercounting from planting
When did you plant?
Started from
1825days until harvest
Right now: Seedling / Establishment0%
PlantedJun 15, 2024
Harvest windowJun 14, 2029Jul 14, 2029
1825d
Pick byJul 14, 2029
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Storage & Preservation

Fresh lychees are highly perishable and should be refrigerated immediately after harvest in a perforated plastic bag, where they keep for one to two weeks. The skin will darken with refrigeration but the flesh remains good. For longer storage, freeze whole unpeeled lychees for up to six months. Lychees can also be dried in their shells to produce a raisin-like product, or canned in light syrup. Peeled and pitted lychees freeze well in syrup packs.

08 · Pests

What goes wrong — and the fix

Lychee Erinose Mite

Pest

Velvety brown or reddish-brown galls on the underside of leaves, curling and distortion of new growth, reduced fruit set.

Prevention Prune and destroy affected growth promptly. Apply sulfur-based sprays during new leaf flush periods.
Fix: Spray with wettable sulfur or carbaryl during early leaf emergence. Repeat applications every two weeks during active growth flushes.

Anthracnose

Disease

Dark brown spots on leaves and fruit skin, fruit cracking and rotting, premature fruit drop during wet weather.

Prevention Maintain good air circulation through proper pruning. Avoid overhead irrigation and remove fallen debris.
Fix: Apply copper-based fungicides or mancozeb at flowering and during fruit development. Increase spray frequency during prolonged wet periods.

Lychee Fruit Borer

Pest

Small entry holes in developing fruit, larvae feeding inside the seed cavity, premature fruit drop and frass at the stem end.

Prevention Bag developing fruit clusters with mesh or paper bags. Remove and destroy fallen fruits that may harbor larvae.
Fix: Apply spinosad or neem-based insecticides at fruit set. Time sprays to target adult moths before they lay eggs on developing fruit.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Poor fruit set is the most common complaint and usually results from insufficient winter chilling, excessive nitrogen fertilization, or warm wet weather during flowering. Fruit cracking occurs when heavy rain follows a dry period during fruit development. Lychee trees are slow to establish and may take five to ten years to produce a meaningful crop. Sunburn can damage exposed fruit, so maintain adequate canopy density. Salt sensitivity limits planting near coastal areas with salt spray.

Growing Tips

  1. Always choose a grafted or air-layered tree from a reputable nursery rather than growing from seed—grafted trees fruit years earlier, produce true-to-type fruit, and are far more predictable in quality and yield.
  2. Lychee demands full sun for at least 8 hours a day; shaded trees grow lushly but rarely fruit well, so select your planting site carefully and do not allow surrounding trees to overshadow the canopy as it matures.
  3. Consistent soil moisture during fruit development is critical—fluctuating wet-dry cycles during the 10–12 weeks of fruit expansion are the primary cause of fruit cracking and splitting, which ruins the harvest.
  4. Never skip the autumn-winter cool-dry stress period; if your climate does not naturally provide 4–6 weeks of cool temperatures and reduced rainfall, you may need to withhold irrigation deliberately to simulate this stress and trigger flower initiation.
  5. Lychee is highly sensitive to waterlogged soils and root rot—always plant in well-draining soil or raised mounds, and never allow the root zone to sit in standing water, especially during the cooler months.
  6. Feed with a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 6-6-6 with micronutrients) three times per year during the growing season—once after the cool period ends in late winter, again after fruit set, and finally immediately after harvest to fuel the critical post-harvest flush.
  7. Container growing is viable in cooler climates using a large pot of at least 100–200 liters; choose a dwarf or slow-growing variety, and move the container to a cool but frost-free location in winter to simulate the stress period required for flowering.
  8. Lychee foliage flushes in waves of bronze-red new growth that is extremely tender and attractive to aphids—monitor flush cycles closely and treat early aphid colonies with a strong water jet or diluted neem oil spray before populations explode.
  9. Light post-harvest pruning improves the structure of the canopy, removes dead or crossing wood, and encourages a well-branched framework that will carry heavier future crops—but avoid heavy pruning, which can delay the next fruiting season.
  10. Mulch the root zone generously with 10–15 cm (4–6 inches) of organic mulch, keeping it away from the trunk, to conserve soil moisture, moderate root temperature, suppress weeds, and gradually improve soil organic matter as the mulch breaks down.
09 · Varieties

Pick your Lychee

Brewster

A vigorous, large tree producing medium-sized fruit with good flavor. One of the most widely planted varieties in Florida, though it can be an alternate bearer.

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Mauritius

A reliable heavy producer with medium-sized fruit that has a small seed and sweet, aromatic flesh. Good choice for home gardens due to consistent bearing.

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Emperor

Produces the largest fruits of any lychee variety, with excellent sweet flavor. Trees are compact and begin bearing at a younger age than most varieties.

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Sweetheart

A dwarf variety suitable for container growing, producing small to medium fruits with exceptionally sweet flesh. Self-fertile and bears at a young age.

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Why Grow Your Own?

Fresh lychees are a premium fruit in most Western markets, often retailing for $6–$12 per pound when imported, and premium fresh lychees during peak season can reach $15 or more per pound at specialty stores. A single mature, well-established lychee tree in a suitable climate can yield 45–100 kg (100–220 lbs) of fruit annually, representing a potential market value of $600–$2,400 or more from a single tree each season. Beyond raw fruit, home growers can produce lychee preserves, dried lychees, and lychee-infused products at a fraction of retail cost. Even in containers, a productive lychee tree typically recoups its initial investment within 3–5 fruiting seasons and continues to produce for decades, offering an outstanding long-term return for the dedicated home orchardist.

10 · Recipes

Quick recipes

Lychee and Rose Water Sorbet

Lychee and Rose Water Sorbet

15 minutes (plus 4 hours freezing)

A fragrant, refreshing frozen dessert that highlights lychee's natural floral perfume. Blended with a touch of rose water and lime juice, this elegant sorbet requires no ice cream maker and showcases the fruit beautifully.

6 ingredients
Thai Lychee and Prawn Salad

Thai Lychee and Prawn Salad

20 minutes

A vibrant sweet-savory salad combining fresh lychees with succulent prawns, crisp cucumber, fresh herbs, and a punchy lime-fish sauce dressing. A classic pairing in Southeast Asian cuisine that balances sweetness, acidity, and heat in every bite.

9 ingredients
Lychee Mocktail with Lemongrass and Mint

Lychee Mocktail with Lemongrass and Mint

10 minutes

A refreshing and fragrant non-alcoholic drink perfect for warm days. Lychee juice is blended with lemongrass syrup, fresh mint, and sparkling water for a sophisticated garden cocktail that makes the most of a fresh harvest.

6 ingredients

Culinary Uses

Fresh lychees are eaten out of hand by peeling the bumpy skin to reveal the translucent, juicy flesh surrounding a single seed. They are used in fruit salads, cocktails, and desserts. Lychee pairs well with coconut, lime, and ginger in Asian-inspired dishes. The fruit is commonly used in sorbets, ice cream, and jellies. Dried lychees are enjoyed as a sweet snack throughout Southeast Asia.

11 · Nutrition

What's inside

Per 100g serving
66
Calories
Vitamin C71.5 mg (79% DV)
Vitamin A1 µg (0% DV)
Potassium171 mg (4% DV)
Fiber1.3 g (5% DV)

Health Benefits

  • Exceptional vitamin C content supports immune function, collagen synthesis, and wound healing—one serving can meet your entire daily vitamin C requirement
  • Rich in antioxidant polyphenols, particularly proanthocyanidins and rutin, which help neutralize free radicals and protect cells from oxidative stress
  • Contains oligonol, a unique polyphenol form found in lychee that research suggests may improve blood circulation and reduce post-exercise fatigue
  • Provides potassium and magnesium, electrolytes that support healthy heart rhythm, blood pressure regulation, and muscle function
  • B vitamins including folate support DNA synthesis and repair, making lychee a beneficial fruit during pregnancy and periods of rapid cell growth
  • High water content combined with natural sugars and electrolytes makes lychee an excellent natural hydration aid in hot climates and after physical activity
12 · History

Where Lychee comes from

The lychee (Litchi chinensis) is one of the oldest and most revered fruits of East Asia, with a cultivation history stretching back at least 2,000 years in the subtropical provinces of southern China. The earliest written records of the lychee appear during the Han Dynasty (206 BCE–220 CE), when the fruit was already regarded as a luxury delicacy fit for emperors. Historical accounts describe Tang Dynasty Emperor Xuanzong ordering fresh lychees transported by relay horsemen from Guangdong province to the imperial capital, a journey of over 1,000 kilometers, simply to please his beloved consort Yang Guifei—a story that has made the lychee an enduring symbol of imperial indulgence and devoted love in Chinese culture.

For centuries, lychee cultivation was confined to southern China and parts of northern Vietnam, where the combination of tropical heat, winter cool spells, and monsoon rainfall created ideal growing conditions. The fruit remained largely unknown to the outside world until Portuguese sailors and merchants began trading in the region in the 16th century, gradually introducing lychee to other parts of Asia, Africa, and eventually the Americas.

By the 17th and 18th centuries, lychee cultivation had spread to India, particularly Bengal and Bihar, where the fruit found a warm welcome and became deeply embedded in local culinary traditions. French missionaries brought the tree to Réunion island in the Indian Ocean in 1764, from which it spread across the broader Indian Ocean region. Lychee arrived in Florida around 1883 and in Hawaii shortly after, and today the United States maintains small but thriving commercial lychee industries in Florida, Hawaii, and California.

Modern lychee production is dominated by China, which accounts for the vast majority of the global harvest, followed by India, Vietnam, Thailand, South Africa, and Madagascar. Over 100 named cultivars have been developed, ranging from the famous 'Brewster' and 'Mauritius' varieties common in Western markets to prized Chinese varieties like 'Nuomici' (Glutinous Rice Lychee) and 'Guiwei' (Cinnamon Smell), which command premium prices for their exceptional flavor. The lychee remains one of the world's most beloved tropical fruits, celebrated across cultures for its uniquely perfumed sweetness and delicate translucent flesh.

13 · Did you know?

Lychee: did you know?

Fascinating facts about Lychee

Lychee trees can live for hundreds of years—some trees in China are documented to be over 1,000 years old and are still producing fruit today.

14 · FAQ

Lychee questions, answered

When should I plant Lychee?
Plant Lychee in March, April, May. It takes approximately 1825 days to reach maturity, with harvest typically in May, June, July.
What hardiness zones can Lychee grow in?
Lychee thrives in USDA hardiness zones 10 through 12. With greenhouse protection, it may be grown in zones 8 through 13.
How much sun does Lychee need?
Lychee requires Full Sun (6-8h+). This means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
How far apart should I space Lychee?
Space Lychee plants 600cm (236 inches) apart for optimal growth and air circulation.
What pests and diseases affect Lychee?
Common issues include Lychee Erinose Mite, Anthracnose, Lychee Fruit Borer. Prevention through good garden practices like crop rotation, proper spacing, and companion planting is the best approach. See the detailed pests and diseases section above for symptoms, prevention, and treatment for each.
How do I store Lychee after harvest?
Fresh lychees are highly perishable and should be refrigerated immediately after harvest in a perforated plastic bag, where they keep for one to two weeks. The skin will darken with refrigeration but the flesh remains good. For longer storage, freeze whole unpeeled lychees for up to six months. Lych...
What are the best Lychee varieties to grow?
Popular varieties include Brewster, Mauritius, Emperor, Sweetheart. Each has unique characteristics suited to different growing conditions and culinary preferences. See the varieties section above for detailed descriptions.
What soil does Lychee need?
Lychees require well-draining, acidic soil with a pH of 5.0 to 5.5. They do not tolerate alkaline conditions, which cause iron and manganese deficiencies. Amend alkaline soils with sulfur and use acidifying fertilizers. Apply a complete fertilizer formulated for acid-loving tropical fruit trees thre...
Why is my lychee tree growing beautifully but never producing any fruit?
The most common reason a healthy lychee tree fails to flower and fruit is the absence of a cool-dry stress period. Lychee requires 4–6 weeks of temperatures between 10–15°C (50–59°F) combined with reduced or withheld irrigation in autumn and winter to trigger flower bud differentiation. In consistently warm or tropical climates without a distinct cool season, trees will grow lush foliage indefinitely but may never switch to reproductive mode. To encourage fruiting, deliberately reduce irrigation from late autumn through mid-winter and avoid applying nitrogen fertilizer during this period. If your climate is genuinely year-round tropical with no cool season, fruiting may be very challenging without selecting specifically adapted low-chill varieties.
How do I know when lychees are ripe and ready to harvest?
Lychee does not continue to ripen after picking, so harvesting at the right moment is essential. Ripe lychees display a fully developed skin color for the variety—typically bright red, crimson, or pink-red depending on the cultivar. The skin should be firm but give very slightly when gently squeezed, and the fruit should emit a distinct sweet, floral fragrance. If the skin has large, prominent bumps or spines that are still quite sharp and pronounced, the fruit is usually not yet fully ripe. As lychees ripen, the tubercles (bumps) soften and flatten slightly. Taste-test a fruit from a few different clusters to confirm sweetness and check that the flesh pulls cleanly away from the seed before committing to a full harvest.
Can I grow lychee in a pot or container if I live in a cooler climate?
Yes, container growing is a practical strategy for gardeners in climates with cold winters. Choose a large container of at least 100–200 liters (25–50 gallons) with excellent drainage, and use a slightly acidic, free-draining potting mix enriched with organic matter. Select slow-growing or compact varieties suited to containers. In autumn, move the pot to a cool but frost-free location such as an unheated greenhouse, enclosed porch, or cool garage where temperatures can drop to 10–15°C (50–59°F) for 4–6 weeks to simulate the winter stress period. Reduce watering during this time. Once flower panicles emerge in late winter, move the tree back to a sunny, warm outdoor position. Container trees will be smaller and produce less fruit than in-ground trees but can remain productive for many years with attentive care.
What is the best soil pH and type for growing lychee?
Lychee performs best in slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.0 and 6.5. In alkaline soils (pH above 7.0), lychee commonly develops iron and manganese deficiencies that manifest as yellowing between the leaf veins (interveinal chlorosis), poor growth, and reduced fruiting. The tree prefers deep, well-draining sandy loam or loamy soils rich in organic matter. It is intolerant of heavy clay soils that retain water around the roots, which rapidly leads to root rot. If your native soil is clay or alkaline, amend extensively with compost, sulfur to lower pH, and coarse sand or perlite to improve drainage, or plant on a raised mound to guarantee root zone drainage.
How long does it take for a lychee tree to produce fruit?
The time to first fruit depends heavily on how the tree was propagated. Air-layered trees (the propagation method most commonly used for named cultivars) typically begin fruiting in 3–5 years from planting in ideal conditions. Grafted trees perform similarly. Seedling-grown trees are the slowest and most unpredictable—they may take 7–15 years before fruiting, and the fruit quality may differ significantly from the parent tree since lychee does not breed true from seed. For a backyard orchard, always invest in a named-variety air-layered or grafted tree from a reputable nursery. Even then, patience is required: lychee is a long-lived tree that rewards gardeners who think in decades rather than seasons.
Why are the leaves on my lychee tree turning yellow?
Yellowing lychee leaves can have several causes, and identifying the pattern helps diagnose the problem. Uniform yellowing of older, lower leaves is often simply natural leaf senescence and nothing to worry about. Yellowing between the leaf veins while the veins remain green (interveinal chlorosis) on new growth typically indicates iron deficiency caused by high soil pH—test your soil and acidify if needed, and apply chelated iron as a foliar spray for a quick fix. Broad yellowing across entire leaves on young growth may indicate nitrogen deficiency, corrected with a balanced fertilizer application. Yellowing accompanied by wilting or root rot smell at the base points to overwatering or poor drainage, which is a serious issue requiring immediate attention. Scale insect infestations can also cause leaves to yellow and become sticky with honeydew.
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From the “Overview” section
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