Fruits · Stone FruitsPrunus (plum x apricot 50/50)

Plumcot

A true fifty-fifty hybrid between plum and apricot, with characteristics evenly split between both parents.

Full Sun (6-8h+)Medium (even moisture)730 daysDifficultyIntermediate
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Plumcot
Sow & harvest reminderstuned to your local frost dates
Plumcot × Walnut Tree — keep apart
Sunlight
Full Sun (6-8h+)
Water Need
Medium (even moisture)
Frost Tolerance
Half-Hardy (light frost)
Days to Maturity
730 days
Plant Spacing
300 cm
118 in
Hardiness Zones
Zone 5–9
USDA
Difficulty
Intermediate
Expected Yield
20-40 kg
On this pageOverview
01 · Overview

Meet Plumcot

A true fifty-fifty hybrid between plum and apricot, with characteristics evenly split between both parents. Plumcots have slightly fuzzy skin like an apricot with the juiciness and sweetness of a plum. They are generally easier to find at nurseries than pluots and make excellent dual-purpose fresh eating and cooking fruits.

730
days from seed to your first harvest. Time your whole season around it — sow, feed and pick dates all key off this one number.
02 · When to plant

When to plant Plumcot

Plumcot seeds may germinate after cold stratification but produce highly variable seedling trees that rarely match the parent. For reliable fruit quality, purchase grafted trees on Myrobalan plum or peach rootstock. Peach rootstock provides better drainage tolerance while plum rootstock handles heavier soils. Grafted trees begin bearing in two to three years and reach full production by year five.

Planting & harvest schedule

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Your last frostApr 16 · average for your zone
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First harvestMar 15 · from sowing to first pick
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03 · Growing guide

How to grow Plumcot

Plumcots are true fifty-fifty hybrids between plum and apricot, with characteristics evenly split between both parents. They are generally easier to grow than pluots and more widely available at nurseries. Plant bare-root trees in late winter, spacing 15 to 20 feet apart. Choose a full-sun location with well-drained soil and good air circulation. Most plumcots benefit from a Japanese plum or another plumcot nearby for cross-pollination.

Plumcots perform well in zones 5 through 9 with 400 to 600 chill hours depending on variety. They tolerate a wider range of growing conditions than pluots, inheriting some hardiness from their apricot parentage. The slightly fuzzy skin resembles an apricot while the juicy, sweet flesh is more plum-like. Train to an open vase form with three to four well-spaced scaffold branches.

Prune in late winter while dormant to remove dead wood, water sprouts, and crossing branches. Thin fruit when marble-sized to four to five inches apart to promote good fruit size and prevent branch breakage. Water consistently during fruit development but reduce irrigation as fruit approaches maturity. Plumcots are moderate growers reaching 15 to 20 feet tall and respond well to summer pruning to control size.

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04 · Companions

Plumcot's best neighbours

Plant a compatible pollinator such as a Japanese plum, pluot, or another plumcot variety within 50 feet. Underplant with garlic and chives to repel borers and aphids. Comfrey provides nutrient-rich mulch material. Nasturtiums and marigolds attract beneficial insects and deter pests. White clover as ground cover fixes nitrogen and supports pollinators. Avoid proximity to walnut trees.

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05 · Soil & feeding

Feed it well

Plumcots grow well in a range of well-drained soils with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. They are slightly more tolerant of clay soils than pluots. Apply balanced fertilizer in early spring before bloom. Moderate feeders that do not require heavy fertilization. Mulch with organic material to maintain soil moisture and suppress weeds. Avoid excessive nitrogen which promotes soft, disease-susceptible growth.

Ideal Temperature

-15°C – 32°C
-20°C0°C20°C40°C

Hardiness Zone Compatibility

12345678910111213
Ideal (zones 5-9)Greenhouse / protection neededNot recommended
06 · Growth stages

From seed to harvest, stage by stage

0–60 days

Dormancy and Planting

Plumcot trees are best established during winter dormancy when bare-root specimens are available from specialist nurseries. Like their parent species, plumcots need a period of winter chilling — typically 400-700 hours below 7°C — to synchronize bud break and flower properly in spring. Planting while dormant gives roots time to establish before the demands of spring growth begin.

60–85 days

Bud Break and Flowering

Plumcots break dormancy slightly later than apricots but earlier than most plums, producing a flush of delicate pale-pink to white blossoms before the leaves emerge. The flowers are highly attractive to early pollinators and benefit from cross-pollination with compatible plum or apricot varieties nearby. Bloom time typically lasts 7-12 days and is vulnerable to late frosts, which can destroy the season's crop if temperatures dip below -2°C.

85–120 days

Fruit Set and Fruitlet Development

After successful pollination, the base of each fertilized flower swells into a small green fruitlet. Plumcots naturally set fruit generously, and without thinning, the tree will produce a heavy crop of small, poorly flavored fruit. The fruitlets grow rapidly in the weeks following petal fall, transitioning from the size of a pea to that of a marble before slowing as the tree redistributes resources.

120–160 days

Fruit Sizing and Color Development

Through early to midsummer the plumcot fruit undergoes rapid expansion, with cells dividing and then expanding as sugars and water accumulate. The skin begins to take on its characteristic blush of red, orange, and gold as anthocyanin pigments develop in response to sunlight and temperature fluctuations. The flesh transitions from firm and green-white to soft and golden-orange as the fruit approaches maturity.

160–190 days

Ripening and Harvest

Plumcots ripen earlier than most plums, typically from midsummer to late summer depending on the variety and climate. Ripe fruit yields gently to thumb pressure near the stem end, develops a full fragrance, and the skin color deepens to its characteristic warm tone. The flesh softens from the outside inward, making perfect timing important — fruit left too long on the tree can become mealy.

190–240 days

Post-Harvest Recovery

After harvest, the plumcot tree enters a recovery phase, replenishing carbohydrate reserves that were depleted by fruit production. Leaves continue to photosynthesize actively through late summer, storing energy in the branches, trunk, and roots for the following year's growth. This period is critical for initiating the flower buds that will produce next season's crop.

240–365 days

Leaf Fall and Winter Dormancy

As day length shortens and temperatures cool, the tree withdraws nutrients from its leaves, which turn yellow before falling. The tree then enters full dormancy, accumulating chill hours that will trigger synchronized bud break the following spring. This dormant period is the ideal window for structural pruning, disease management, and soil improvement work.

Care Tip

Choose a sunny, sheltered site with well-drained soil and good air circulation to minimize late frost damage to early blossoms. Plant bare-root trees before buds begin to swell, setting the graft union 5-7 cm above the soil surface. Water in deeply and apply a wide ring of mulch, keeping it away from the trunk collar.

Plumcot tree branches covered in pale pink blossoms in early spring
Plumcot blossoms emerge in early spring, requiring cross-pollination from compatible plum or apricot trees for good fruit set
07 · Monthly care

Caring for Plumcot month by month

What to do each month for your Plumcot

July

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No specific care tasks for this month.

08 · Harvest

Harvesting Plumcot

Plumcots ripen from mid-July through August depending on variety and location. Harvest when fruit develops full color and yields slightly to gentle pressure. The slightly fuzzy skin should feel supple rather than firm. Fruit flavor improves significantly in the last few days on the tree, so avoid picking too early. Taste several fruit before committing to a full harvest. Pick every two to three days as ripening is uneven across the canopy.

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PlantedJun 15, 2024
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Storage & Preservation

Fresh plumcots keep four to six days refrigerated. Their dual nature makes them versatile for preservation. They dry well like apricots, producing chewy, sweet dried fruit. Plumcot jam combines the best qualities of both plum and apricot preserves. Freeze sliced on trays before bagging for year-round use. Can in light syrup for a pantry staple. Their balanced sweet-tart flavor makes excellent fruit leather.

09 · Pests

What goes wrong — and the fix

Brown Rot

Disease

Tan, fuzzy mold on ripening fruit spreading rapidly in warm, humid weather. Blossom blight kills flower clusters in wet springs.

Prevention Remove mummified fruit from tree and ground. Prune for good air circulation. Apply fungicide at bloom.
Fix: Apply captan or myclobutanil at bloom, petal fall, and preharvest. Remove all infected fruit immediately.

Bacterial Spot

Disease

Angular, dark water-soaked spots on leaves that develop into shot-holes. Fruit develops small sunken lesions that crack.

Prevention Select resistant varieties. Avoid overhead irrigation. Maintain good air movement through proper pruning.
Fix: Copper sprays at leaf fall and bud swell. No effective treatment during the growing season once established.

Plum Curculio

Pest

Crescent-shaped scars on young fruit from egg-laying. Larvae feed inside causing premature fruit drop and wormy fruit.

Prevention Spread tarps and shake trees at dawn to collect adults. Remove all fallen fruit promptly.
Fix: Kaolin clay at petal fall creates a barrier. Apply approved insecticide at petal fall and ten days later.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Cross-pollination requirements can be confusing since different varieties need different pollinators. Fruit cracking occurs with inconsistent watering during the final ripening period. Brown rot is the primary disease concern in humid climates. Birds and wasps target the sweet ripening fruit aggressively. Some varieties alternate bear, producing heavy crops one year and light the next.

Growing Tips

  1. Plant plumcots in the sunniest available position, as they require at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily for good fruit development. A south- or west-facing wall or fence provides reflected warmth that is especially valuable in cooler climates and helps ripen fruit more reliably.
  2. Ensure a compatible pollination partner is planted within 15 meters. Most plumcot varieties benefit from cross-pollination with a Japanese plum variety such as Santa Rosa or Methley, or a compatible apricot variety. Check bloom time compatibility when purchasing to ensure the two trees flower simultaneously.
  3. Train plumcots to an open vase or modified central leader shape during the first 3 years by selecting 3-5 evenly spaced scaffold branches and removing competing leaders. Good structure established early reduces the need for heavy corrective pruning later and improves light distribution throughout the canopy.
  4. Thin fruit aggressively when fruitlets reach 1-2 cm in diameter, leaving one fruit every 8-10 cm along each branch. Over-cropping produces small, poorly colored fruit and exhausts the tree, leading to reduced yields in subsequent years. Thinning is the single highest-impact task for improving plumcot quality.
  5. Prune plumcots in late summer immediately after harvest rather than in winter, as Prunus species pruned during dormancy are highly susceptible to silver leaf disease and bacterial canker entering through fresh wounds. Summer pruning wounds heal quickly in warm conditions, reducing infection risk significantly.
  6. Apply a 7-10 cm mulch of well-rotted compost or wood chips in a wide ring around the tree each spring, keeping mulch at least 15 cm away from the trunk. Mulch conserves soil moisture during the critical fruit-sizing period, moderates soil temperature, and suppresses competing weeds without the need for herbicides.
  7. Protect the harvest from birds by draping netting over the canopy as fruit begins to color. Birds can strip a small tree within days of ripening. Use fine-mesh netting draped over the whole canopy and secured at the base to prevent birds from entering beneath it.
  8. Monitor for brown rot (Monilinia fructicola), the most destructive disease of plumcots, which spreads rapidly in warm, humid conditions near harvest. Remove and destroy any mummified fruit left on the tree or ground immediately, and avoid leaving damaged or split fruit on the tree. Apply a copper or sulfur-based fungicide spray 2-3 weeks before expected harvest in high-risk seasons.
  9. Harvest plumcots over multiple sessions across 7-10 days as the fruit ripens unevenly across the canopy. Fruit on sun-exposed outer branches ripens first. Gently squeeze near the stem — ripe fruit yields slightly but is not mushy. Plumcots do not ripen well off the tree, so wait for true tree-ripeness before picking.
  10. Refrigerate harvested plumcots promptly and consume within 3-5 days for peak eating quality. For surplus fruit, preserve by making jam, compote, or chutney within 24-48 hours of picking, or freeze halved pitted fruit on trays before transferring to bags for use in smoothies and baked goods throughout the year.
10 · Varieties

Pick your Plumcot

Plumcot

The original Luther Burbank hybrid from the early 1900s. Medium-sized fruit with balanced plum-apricot flavor. Widely adapted.

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Flavorella

Yellow-skinned plumcot with sweet, aromatic flesh. Self-fruitful in warm climates. Excellent fresh eating variety.

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Spring Satin

Early-ripening plumcot with purple skin and amber flesh. Good balance of sweetness and acidity. Reliable producer.

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Tri-Lite

White-fleshed plumcot with red skin and mild, sweet flavor. Low acid makes it appealing to those who find plums too tart.

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Why Grow Your Own?

A mature plumcot tree on semi-dwarf rootstock typically produces 20-40 kg of fruit per year. At specialty market prices of $5-$10 per kg for fresh stone fruit of this quality — plumcots rarely appear in supermarkets — a single tree can deliver $100-$400 worth of premium fruit annually once in full production. Tree cost is typically $25-$60 from a specialist nursery. Given a productive lifespan of 20-30 years with proper care, a plumcot tree represents exceptional long-term value, particularly when accounting for the superior flavor of home-grown fruit harvested at true ripeness compared to anything commercially available.

11 · Recipes

Quick recipes

Plumcot and Honey Galette

Plumcot and Honey Galette

50 minutes

A rustic free-form tart that lets the vibrant flavor of garden-fresh plumcots take center stage, nestled in buttery pastry with a drizzle of honey and a scattering of crushed almonds. The slight tartness of the plumcot skin caramelizes beautifully at the edges of the pastry, creating a jam-like intensity that needs no added spices to impress.

7 ingredients
Plumcot Refrigerator Jam

Plumcot Refrigerator Jam

30 minutes

A small-batch, no-pectin jam that captures the fresh, intensely floral flavor of home-grown plumcots in a jar. Cooking the fruit briefly preserves its aromatic brightness, and the natural pectin from slightly underripe fruit provides enough setting power without additives. Keeps refrigerated for up to three weeks and makes a superb partner for yogurt, cheese, or warm toast.

5 ingredients
Grilled Plumcot and Burrata Salad

Grilled Plumcot and Burrata Salad

20 minutes

A stunning summer salad that pairs the caramelized sweetness of briefly grilled plumcots with creamy burrata, peppery rocket, and a balsamic glaze. Grilling the plumcots over high heat for just a few minutes concentrates their sugars and intensifies their flavor while leaving the flesh just tender. This dish works equally well as a starter or a light main course.

8 ingredients

Culinary Uses

Plumcots are excellent dual-purpose fruit for both fresh eating and cooking. They make outstanding pies, tarts, and cobblers with a complex flavor that combines plum juiciness and apricot aromatics. Preserves and jam have a unique character distinct from either parent fruit. Grill halved plumcots for a smoky-sweet dessert. They blend well into smoothies and sorbets.

12 · Nutrition

What's inside

Per 100g serving
48
Calories
Vitamin C9.5 mg (11% DV)
Vitamin A1080 IU (22% DV)
Potassium226 mg (6% DV)
Fiber1.8 g (7% DV)

Health Benefits

  • Rich in beta-carotene, the provitamin A carotenoid that the body converts to retinol, supporting night vision, immune system function, and the maintenance of healthy epithelial tissue throughout the body
  • Delivers anthocyanins from the plum parent's red-purple skin pigments, powerful antioxidants that neutralize free radicals, reduce systemic inflammation, and have been associated with improved cardiovascular health in population studies
  • Provides dietary fiber that feeds beneficial gut bacteria, supports regular bowel movements, and helps moderate the rate at which natural sugars from the fruit enter the bloodstream, reducing post-meal glucose spikes
  • Contains chlorogenic acid, a plant polyphenol found in high concentrations in both plums and apricots, that has shown potential in clinical research for improving insulin sensitivity and reducing the risk of type 2 diabetes
  • Supplies a meaningful amount of potassium, an electrolyte mineral essential for regulating blood pressure, supporting heart muscle function, and maintaining proper fluid balance in cells and tissues
  • The combination of vitamin C and beta-carotene in a single fruit provides complementary antioxidant protection, with vitamin C working in water-soluble environments and carotenoids protecting lipid-rich cell membranes from oxidative damage
13 · History

Where Plumcot comes from

The plumcot occupies a fascinating place in horticultural history as one of the earliest deliberately created interspecific fruit hybrids to gain widespread cultivation. Its story begins with Luther Burbank (1849-1926), the self-taught plant breeder who established his experimental farm in Santa Rosa, California, and spent decades crossing and selecting plants from around the world. Working in the late 1800s, Burbank successfully crossed the Japanese plum (Prunus salicina) with the apricot (Prunus armeniaca) to produce what he described as a hybrid with the vigor and flavor attributes of both parent species. He coined the name plumcot and released several selections to nurseries in the 1890s and early 1900s. Burbank himself was prolific in his promotional writing about the plumcot, describing it in catalogues as combining the best qualities of its two distinguished parents. The broader context for this work was the late 19th-century boom in California fruit breeding, driven by the state's rapidly expanding agricultural economy and the ambitions of growers seeking novel crops for eastern markets. Prunus species from Asia, Europe, and the Americas were being grown in close proximity for the first time, creating new crossing opportunities that breeders like Burbank exploited systematically. The plumcot attracted considerable attention but never achieved the commercial dominance Burbank hoped for, largely because its tender skin and short shelf life made it difficult to ship and store compared to the tougher commercial plums and apricots already dominant in the market. In the 1980s and 1990s, California breeder Floyd Zaiger took Burbank's work further by developing the pluot and aprium, back-crosses that weighted the genetics more heavily toward plum or apricot respectively, and these achieved greater commercial success. Despite this, the original plumcot has retained a devoted following among home orchardists and specialty growers who prize its exceptional flavor and unique place in fruit-breeding history. Today, named plumcot varieties including Flavor Delight, Spring Satin, and Cot N Candy continue to be cultivated and refined, carrying forward Burbank's original vision of a fruit that truly bridges two of the world's most beloved stone fruit species.

14 · Did you know?

Plumcot: did you know?

Fascinating facts about Plumcot

The plumcot is a true 50/50 hybrid between a plum (Prunus salicina or P. domestica) and an apricot (Prunus armeniaca), making it one of the most balanced interspecific Prunus crosses — distinct from the later pluot, which is bred to be 75% plum and only 25% apricot.

15 · FAQ

Plumcot questions, answered

When should I plant Plumcot?
Plant Plumcot in March, April. It takes approximately 730 days to reach maturity, with harvest typically in July, August.
What are good companion plants for Plumcot?
Plumcot grows well alongside Garlic, Marigold. Companion planting can improve growth, flavor, and natural pest control.
What hardiness zones can Plumcot grow in?
Plumcot thrives in USDA hardiness zones 5 through 9. With greenhouse protection, it may be grown in zones 3 through 10.
How much sun does Plumcot need?
Plumcot requires Full Sun (6-8h+). This means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
How far apart should I space Plumcot?
Space Plumcot plants 300cm (118 inches) apart for optimal growth and air circulation.
What pests and diseases affect Plumcot?
Common issues include Brown Rot, Bacterial Spot, Plum Curculio. Prevention through good garden practices like crop rotation, proper spacing, and companion planting is the best approach. See the detailed pests and diseases section above for symptoms, prevention, and treatment for each.
How do I store Plumcot after harvest?
Fresh plumcots keep four to six days refrigerated. Their dual nature makes them versatile for preservation. They dry well like apricots, producing chewy, sweet dried fruit. Plumcot jam combines the best qualities of both plum and apricot preserves. Freeze sliced on trays before bagging for year-roun...
What are the best Plumcot varieties to grow?
Popular varieties include Plumcot, Flavorella, Spring Satin, Tri-Lite. Each has unique characteristics suited to different growing conditions and culinary preferences. See the varieties section above for detailed descriptions.
What soil does Plumcot need?
Plumcots grow well in a range of well-drained soils with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. They are slightly more tolerant of clay soils than pluots. Apply balanced fertilizer in early spring before bloom. Moderate feeders that do not require heavy fertilization. Mulch with organic material to maintain soil moist...
What is the difference between a plumcot, a pluot, and an aprium?
All three are hybrids between plum and apricot but differ in the proportion of each parent. A plumcot is a true 50/50 hybrid, developed by Luther Burbank in the late 1800s. A pluot (developed by Floyd Zaiger in the 1980s-90s) is approximately 75% plum and 25% apricot, resulting in fruit with plum-like smooth skin, richer color, and higher sugar content. An aprium is the reverse — roughly 75% apricot and 25% plum — with fuzzy apricot-like skin and a more pronounced apricot flavor and aroma. The plumcot sits between the two in flavor profile, offering a more balanced character than either back-cross, though pluots have largely overtaken it commercially due to their longer shelf life.
Does a plumcot need a pollinator, and which varieties work best?
Most plumcot varieties are not reliably self-fertile and perform significantly better with a compatible cross-pollinator planted nearby. The best pollinators are Japanese plum varieties (Prunus salicina) that bloom at the same time, such as Santa Rosa, Methley, or Beauty. Some apricot varieties can also serve as pollinators if their bloom time overlaps. Check the bloom period of your specific plumcot variety when purchasing and confirm the pollinator variety blooms concurrently. Even varieties described as partly self-fertile set noticeably heavier crops when a compatible pollinator is present.
When should I prune my plumcot tree?
Unlike apples and pears, which are best pruned in winter, plumcots and other Prunus species should ideally be pruned in late summer, immediately after harvest. Pruning in late summer allows wounds to callus over quickly in warm conditions before the tree enters dormancy, greatly reducing the risk of silver leaf disease (Chondrostereum purpureum) and bacterial canker entering through fresh cuts. If structural pruning is necessary in winter, keep cuts to a minimum and apply a copper-based wound paint immediately. Remove dead, diseased, and crossing branches, and aim to keep the center of the canopy open to light and air movement.
Why is my plumcot fruit small and tasteless?
The most common causes are over-cropping and insufficient sun. Plumcot trees are naturally generous fruiters and without proper thinning will produce an excessive number of small, underflavored fruit. Thin the crop aggressively in late spring to one fruit every 8-10 cm on each branch. A lack of direct sunlight — fewer than 6 hours per day — prevents sugar development and leads to bland, undercolored fruit. Inconsistent watering during the fruit-sizing period also reduces quality, as does over-fertilization with nitrogen, which promotes leafy growth at the expense of fruit quality.
How do I deal with brown rot on my plumcot?
Brown rot (Monilinia fructicola) is the most serious disease affecting plumcots, particularly in warm, humid conditions near harvest time. Infected fruit develops spreading brown patches and quickly turns into shriveled, fungus-coated mummies. Prevention is more effective than treatment: remove and destroy all mummified fruit from the tree and ground immediately, as these are the primary source of overwintering spores. Ensure good airflow through the canopy by regular pruning. Avoid overhead watering that wets foliage and fruit. In high-pressure seasons, apply a copper- or sulfur-based fungicide spray 2-3 weeks before expected harvest and again one week later. Harvest promptly and handle fruit gently to avoid creating wounds that the fungus can enter.
Can I grow a plumcot in a container?
Plumcots can be grown in large containers of at least 60-80 liters on a dwarfing or semi-dwarfing rootstock, making them viable for patios and courtyard gardens. Use a well-draining, loam-based potting mix enriched with compost, and ensure the pot has generous drainage holes. Container trees require daily watering during warm weather and a regular liquid feed every two weeks through the growing season. They will still need a compatible pollinator nearby — a second pot with a Japanese plum or apricot variety works well. Protect the pot from hard frosts in winter by moving it to a sheltered spot or wrapping the container with insulating material, as roots in containers are more exposed to cold than those in the ground.
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Companion crops

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