
Atemoya
Annona squamosa x cherimola
At a Glance
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A hybrid between sugar apple and cherimoya, combining the best qualities of both parents: creamy, custard-like flesh with tropical sweetness and better cold tolerance. Atemoya fruits have a smoother skin than sugar apple and do not fall apart when ripe. Hand pollination is usually necessary for good fruit set in home gardens.
Planting & Harvest Calendar
Growth Stages
From Seed to Harvest

Seed Germination and Seedling Stage
Days 0–90
Atemoya seeds have a hard outer coat that can delay germination for several weeks. Once scarified or soaked, seeds typically sprout within 20 to 40 days under warm conditions. Seedlings emerge with small oval cotyledons followed by glossy, elliptical true leaves. Growth is slow at this stage as the young plant focuses on root establishment in warm, well-drained soil. Grafted trees from nurseries skip this stage and begin growing much sooner.
💡 Care Tip
Soak seeds in warm water for 48 to 72 hours or lightly nick the seed coat with a file before planting. Start in small pots with a well-draining mix of peat and perlite. Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged at 25 to 30 degrees Celsius. Provide bright indirect light and protect seedlings from direct midday sun until they develop four or more true leaves.

An atemoya seedling establishing its first set of true leaves before transplanting to the garden
Monthly Care Calendar
What to do each month for your Atemoya
May
You are herePeak flowering period in most subtropical growing regions. Hand-pollinate consistently every two to three days as new flowers open. Monitor developing fruitlets from earlier pollinations. Increase watering to support both flowering and fruit set. Watch for chalcid wasps that can damage developing seeds inside young fruit.

Hand pollination of atemoya flowers using a fine brush to transfer pollen from male-stage to female-stage blooms
Did You Know?
Fascinating facts about Atemoya
The atemoya is a human-made hybrid first created in 1908 by P.J. Wester at the USDA Subtropical Laboratory in Miami, Florida, by crossing cherimoya (Annona cherimola) with sugar apple (Annona squamosa).
Choose a planting site with full sun, good air circulation, and protection from strong winds that can damage the brittle branches. Atemoya tolerates more cold than sugar apple, surviving brief dips to 26 degrees Fahrenheit when mature, but young trees need frost protection. Plant in spring after the last frost, spacing trees 15 to 20 feet apart in well-drained soil amended with compost.
Water deeply once or twice per week during the growing season, allowing the top few inches of soil to dry between irrigations. Atemoya trees are semi-deciduous and may drop leaves in winter or during dry spells. Reduce watering during dormancy and resume when new growth appears in spring. Mulch around the root zone with organic material to conserve moisture and moderate soil temperature.
Hand pollination is essential for consistent fruiting. The protogynous flowers open in the female stage in the afternoon and transition to the male pollen-shedding stage the following morning. Collect pollen from male-stage flowers and apply it to the sticky stigma of female-stage flowers using a small paintbrush. Fertilize three to four times per year with a balanced fertilizer including micronutrients. Prune after harvest to remove dead wood and maintain an open canopy structure.
The atemoya is a relatively modern fruit, first deliberately created in 1908 by horticulturist P.J. Wester at the United States Department of Agriculture Subtropical Laboratory in Miami, Florida. Wester crossed the cherimoya (Annona cherimola), a fruit native to the highland valleys of Ecuador, Peru, and Colombia, with the sugar apple (Annona squamosa), which originated in the tropical lowlands of Central America and the Caribbean. The goal was to combine the cherimoya's superb custard-like flavor and smooth texture with the sugar apple's tolerance for hot, humid lowland conditions. The resulting hybrid proved remarkably successful, inheriting the best traits of both parents: the rich, complex flavor reminiscent of vanilla, pineapple, and coconut from the cherimoya, and the heat tolerance and vigorous growth habit of the sugar apple. Following Wester's initial crosses, atemoya cultivation spread to tropical and subtropical regions worldwide throughout the twentieth century. Israel became an important center of atemoya development, where the Gefner cultivar was bred for improved fruit quality and partial self-fertility. Australia, particularly Queensland and New South Wales, developed a significant commercial atemoya industry beginning in the 1960s, with the cultivars African Pride and Pinks Mammoth becoming regional favorites. In South Florida, the fruit found a devoted following among home gardeners and small-scale farmers in the Homestead and Redland agricultural districts. Taiwan, South Africa, and parts of Southeast Asia also adopted atemoya cultivation, each region selecting or breeding cultivars suited to local conditions. Today the atemoya remains a specialty fruit prized by tropical fruit enthusiasts and gourmet markets, valued for its extraordinary flavor that many consider among the finest of all tropical fruits.
Atemoya seeds should be planted fresh from ripe fruit for best germination rates. Soak seeds in water for 48 hours or scarify the hard seed coat with a file. Plant seeds one inch deep in a well-drained potting mix and maintain temperatures of 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Germination is irregular and may take three to eight weeks. Seedling trees are slow-growing initially and may take four to five years to bear fruit. For true-to-type varieties, grafted trees are strongly recommended over seedlings.
Atemoya grows best in well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. It tolerates sandy and rocky soils but performs poorly in heavy clay or waterlogged conditions. Apply a balanced fertilizer with micronutrients three to four times per year, increasing potassium during fruiting for better fruit quality. Iron deficiency is common in alkaline soils and shows as yellowing between leaf veins on new growth. Apply chelated iron as a soil drench or foliar spray to correct deficiencies.
Check Your Zone
See if Atemoya is suitable for your location.
10°C – 35°C
50°F – 95°F
Atemoya trees thrive in warm subtropical to tropical conditions with optimal growth occurring between 20 and 30 degrees Celsius. The trees can tolerate brief dips to 10 degrees Celsius once established but suffer significant leaf drop and branch dieback below 5 degrees Celsius. Mature trees are slightly more cold-hardy than sugar apples but less cold-tolerant than cherimoyas. Prolonged exposure to temperatures above 35 degrees Celsius can cause flower drop, poor pollination, and sunscald on exposed fruit. Consistent warmth with moderate humidity and protection from strong winds produces the best fruit quality and highest yields.
Common issues affecting Atemoya and how to prevent and treat them organically.
Low fruit set despite abundant flowering is the primary frustration, nearly always due to poor pollination. Hand pollination is the reliable solution. Branch breakage under heavy fruit loads is common, so thin fruit clusters and support laden branches. Wind damage can be severe due to brittle wood. Trunk splitting during winter freeze-thaw cycles affects trees in marginal cold zones. Apply trunk wraps and mulch heavily before winter in zone 9 locations.
Plant atemoya alongside other Annona family members for cross-pollination potential, particularly cherimoya. Low-growing ground covers like perennial peanut or sweet potato help retain moisture and suppress weeds beneath the canopy. Nitrogen-fixing cover crops such as cowpea or sunn hemp can be grown between young trees. Avoid planting near black walnut or other allelopathic trees. Windbreak plants like banana or moringa protect atemoya from damaging gusts.

Companion planting beneath an atemoya tree with nutrient-accumulating comfrey and ground-covering sweet potato vines
- 1Plant atemoya trees in a location that receives full sun for at least six to eight hours daily and is protected from strong winds, which can desiccate flowers and snap brittle branches loaded with heavy fruit.
- 2Ensure excellent soil drainage by planting on a slight mound or raised bed if your soil contains any clay component, as Annona species are highly susceptible to root rot in waterlogged conditions.
- 3Hand pollination is essentially mandatory for reliable fruit production in most regions. Collect pollen from male-stage flowers in the morning and apply it to female-stage flowers in the late afternoon for highest success rates.
- 4Water deeply but infrequently during the growing season, allowing the top few centimeters of soil to dry between waterings. Reduce irrigation significantly during the semi-dormant winter period when the tree drops some leaves.
- 5Apply a balanced fertilizer with micronutrients including zinc, manganese, and magnesium three to four times per year during the active growing season, tapering off applications in autumn to allow the tree to harden growth before winter.
- 6Prune annually during the semi-dormant period to maintain an open vase shape with three to five main scaffold branches. Remove interior crossing branches to improve air circulation and light penetration throughout the canopy.
- 7Protect young trees from any frost by covering them with frost cloth or using string lights for supplemental heat when temperatures are forecast to drop below 5 degrees Celsius, as young atemoya trees are especially cold-sensitive.
- 8Bag developing fruit with mesh or paper bags approximately four weeks after pollination to protect against fruit-piercing moths, fruit flies, and birds while still allowing air circulation to prevent fungal issues.
- 9Monitor for common pests including mealybugs, scale insects, and spider mites by inspecting the undersides of leaves and branch junctions weekly during warm months. Treat early infestations with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap before populations explode.
- 10Harvest fruit when the skin lightens from dark green to pale yellowish-green and the bumps on the surface begin to spread apart slightly. Allow harvested fruit to ripen at room temperature for three to five days before eating, and never store unripe atemoya in the refrigerator as cold temperatures halt the ripening process permanently.
Atemoya fruits are ready when they change from dark green to a lighter yellowish-green color and yield slightly to gentle thumb pressure. Unlike sugar apple, atemoya does not separate into segments on the tree. Clip the fruit from the branch with a short stem attached and ripen at room temperature for two to five days until the flesh is soft and custard-like. A fully ripe atemoya gives when pressed like a ripe avocado. Do not allow fruit to over-ripen on the tree, as it becomes mushy and attracts fruit flies.
Ripe atemoya is best eaten within two to three days and can be refrigerated for up to five days. For longer storage, scoop out the flesh, remove seeds, and freeze in airtight containers for up to six months. Frozen atemoya pulp makes excellent ice cream, smoothies, and sorbets. The flesh can also be pureed and strained into juice. Atemoya does not can well due to its delicate texture but can be used in frozen desserts year-round.
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Nutritional Info
Per 100g serving
94
Calories
Health Benefits
- Excellent source of vitamin C, providing over 20 percent of the daily recommended intake per 100-gram serving to support immune function
- Rich in potassium which helps regulate blood pressure and supports proper muscle and nerve function
- Contains significant dietary fiber that promotes healthy digestion and supports beneficial gut microbiota
- Provides B-complex vitamins including thiamine, riboflavin, and niacin that assist in energy metabolism
- Low in fat and sodium, making it a heart-healthy fruit choice suitable for most dietary plans
- Contains natural antioxidant compounds including polyphenols and flavonoids that help protect cells from oxidative stress
💰 Why Grow Your Own?
Fresh atemoyas sell for $8 to $15 per pound at specialty markets and tropical fruit vendors when available, and their extreme perishability means they rarely appear in standard grocery stores. A single productive backyard tree can yield 50 to 75 fruits per season once established, representing $200 to $500 or more in annual retail value from a tree that requires minimal inputs beyond water, occasional fertilizer, and the rewarding hands-on practice of hand pollination during the flowering season.

A cross-section of ripe atemoya showing its smooth, custard-textured white flesh and scattered dark seeds
Quick Recipes
Simple recipes using fresh Atemoya

Atemoya Tropical Smoothie Bowl
10 minutesA thick, creamy smoothie bowl that showcases the natural custard-like texture of fresh atemoya, topped with tropical fruits and crunchy granola for a satisfying breakfast or afternoon treat that tastes like dessert but delivers genuine nutrition.

Atemoya Coconut Panna Cotta
20 minutes plus 4 hours chillingAn elegant chilled dessert that pairs the delicate vanilla and pineapple notes of fresh atemoya with rich coconut cream, set into silky individual portions that melt on the tongue and make a sophisticated finish to any meal.

Atemoya and Lime Sorbet
15 minutes plus 4 hours freezingA refreshing dairy-free frozen treat that captures the exotic, perfumed sweetness of ripe atemoya balanced by bright lime juice, creating a palate-cleansing sorbet perfect for hot summer days or as a light intermezzo between courses.

Freshly picked atemoya fruits cushioned in a harvest basket, handled carefully to avoid bruising the delicate skin
Yield & Spacing Calculator
See how many Atemoya plants fit in your garden bed based on the recommended 450cm spacing.
0
Atemoya plants in a 4×4 ft bed
0 columns × 0 rows at 450cm spacing
Popular Varieties
Some of the most popular atemoya varieties for home gardeners, each with unique characteristics.
Gefner
The most widely planted atemoya variety, producing large heart-shaped fruits with exceptional sweetness and the ability to set some fruit without hand pollination.
Lisa
A cold-hardy selection from Florida with smooth green skin, dense creamy flesh, and good wind resistance, ideal for home gardens.
Priestly
An Australian cultivar known for large fruit size, excellent flavor, and vigorous tree growth with good disease resistance.
African Pride
A heavy-bearing variety popular in Australia and South Africa, with medium-sized fruits and reliably sweet, smooth flesh.
Atemoya is superb eaten fresh, with the chilled custard-like flesh scooped out with a spoon. It makes exceptional ice cream, mousse, and milkshakes. The flavor pairs well with lime, coconut, and vanilla. In tropical regions it is blended into smoothies or used as a topping for shaved ice desserts. The pulp can be strained for juice or frozen for later use.
When should I plant Atemoya?
Plant Atemoya in March, April, May. It takes approximately 1095 days to reach maturity, with harvest typically in September, October, November.
What are good companion plants for Atemoya?
Atemoya grows well alongside Cherimoya. Companion planting can improve growth, flavor, and natural pest control.
What hardiness zones can Atemoya grow in?
Atemoya thrives in USDA hardiness zones 9 through 11. With greenhouse protection, it may be grown in zones 7 through 12.
How much sun does Atemoya need?
Atemoya requires Full Sun (6-8h+). This means at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
How far apart should I space Atemoya?
Space Atemoya plants 450cm (177 inches) apart for optimal growth and air circulation.
What pests and diseases affect Atemoya?
Common issues include Chalcid Wasp (Seed Borer), Leaf Spot (Cercospora), Mealybugs. Prevention through good garden practices like crop rotation, proper spacing, and companion planting is the best approach. See the detailed pests and diseases section above for symptoms, prevention, and treatment for each.
How do I store Atemoya after harvest?
Ripe atemoya is best eaten within two to three days and can be refrigerated for up to five days. For longer storage, scoop out the flesh, remove seeds, and freeze in airtight containers for up to six months. Frozen atemoya pulp makes excellent ice cream, smoothies, and sorbets. The flesh can also be...
What are the best Atemoya varieties to grow?
Popular varieties include Gefner, Lisa, Priestly, African Pride. Each has unique characteristics suited to different growing conditions and culinary preferences. See the varieties section above for detailed descriptions.
What soil does Atemoya need?
Atemoya grows best in well-drained, slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. It tolerates sandy and rocky soils but performs poorly in heavy clay or waterlogged conditions. Apply a balanced fertilizer with micronutrients three to four times per year, increasing potassium during fruit...
Why do my atemoya flowers fall off without setting fruit?
The most common reason for flower drop without fruit set is lack of pollination. Atemoya flowers are protogynous dichogamous, meaning each flower opens as female first and male the next day. Natural pollinators are often absent outside the tree's native range, so hand pollination is usually required. Collect pollen from male-stage flowers and transfer it to the stigmas of female-stage flowers using a small brush during the late afternoon. Environmental stress from excessive heat, drought, or cold can also cause flower abortion.
Can I grow an atemoya tree in a container?
Yes, atemoya trees can be grown in large containers of at least 75 to 100 liters, which is useful in regions where winter temperatures drop below 5 degrees Celsius and the tree must be moved indoors. Use a well-draining potting mix amended with perlite and pine bark. Container-grown trees will be smaller and produce fewer fruits than in-ground trees, but with proper fertilization, adequate sunlight, and hand pollination, they can still yield 15 to 25 fruits per season. Repot every two to three years and prune roots lightly to manage size.
How long does it take for an atemoya tree to produce fruit?
Grafted atemoya trees typically begin flowering and can produce their first fruit within two to three years of planting. Seedling-grown trees are much slower, often taking four to six years or longer to reach reproductive maturity, and the resulting fruit quality is unpredictable. For this reason, grafted trees of named cultivars such as Gefner, African Pride, or Pinks Mammoth are strongly recommended for home growers who want reliable fruit production in the shortest possible time.
Is the atemoya tree cold hardy?
Atemoya trees have limited cold tolerance. Mature trees can withstand brief temperature drops to about minus 2 degrees Celsius with some leaf and twig damage, but sustained freezing temperatures will cause severe dieback or death. Young trees are more vulnerable and should be protected whenever temperatures fall below 5 degrees Celsius. The trees perform best in USDA hardiness zones 10 and 11, or in protected microclimates within zone 9b. In cooler regions, container culture with winter indoor protection is the most reliable approach.
What is the best atemoya variety for home growing?
The Gefner cultivar is widely considered the best choice for home growers because it is one of the few varieties that can set some fruit without hand pollination, though yields improve dramatically with manual pollination. African Pride is popular in Australia and warmer regions for its large, flavorful fruit and vigorous growth. Pinks Mammoth produces exceptionally large fruit but requires consistent hand pollination. For container growing or smaller spaces, Lisa is a compact cultivar with excellent fruit quality. Choose a variety suited to your climate and available growing space.
Are atemoya seeds toxic?
Yes, atemoya seeds contain annonaceous acetogenins and other compounds that are toxic if ingested. The seeds are large and easy to avoid when eating the fruit, but they should never be chewed, crushed, or swallowed. Keep seeds away from children and pets. The flesh of the fruit is perfectly safe and nutritious to eat. When preparing atemoya for recipes, simply scoop out the flesh and discard all seeds. Seed powder has been used traditionally as an insecticide in some regions, reflecting the potency of these natural compounds.
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Vladimir Kusnezow
Gardener and Software Developer
Zone 6b gardener. Growing vegetables and fruits in soil and hydroponics for 6 years. I built PlotMyGarden to plan my own gardens.
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